Chickies Rock Rock Climbing
|GPS:||40.058, -76.531 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||Ross Purnell on Feb 14, 2008|
|Admins:||SCPC, SWPACC, EPAC, Justin Johnsen|
There is a popular bouldering area called "The Cave" and not far away, in the Trail Valley area, there is a 3-pitch climb with bolted belayed stations that finishes on the steep face on one of the highest points of Chickies Rock. If you like topping out at a popular tourist outlook, this one is for you.
The crag is in Chickies Rock County Park with plenty of parking and a flat, well-developed paved bike trail. Access does not come easier than Chickies Rock.
Chickies Rock is the largest exposed anticline on the East Coast. According to USGS, the summit of the ridge is 587 feet (179 metres) above sea level. At its highest point the rock is about 250 feet tall. On the face where the main crowd climbs, the cliff is about 150 feet. Maybe 75-100 feet up to Riverview Ledge, and then another 50 feet up The Block if you try for a second pitch; very few people do that. The climb straight up the center of The Block is an excellent 5.8 called Ape Call that is rarely climbed.
This is a trad area. If you set up top ropes on Riverview ledge, allow ground-up leaders to climb through, and share the lines with other parties. It's generally a friendly group of people eager to share the Chickies Rock experience.
Follow the NLCRT east and south (downriver), use the bridge to cross Chiques Creek, and follow the paved path until you get to the cliff. The first area you encounter to the left is the Northwest Buttress. Sometimes the trees and bushes are so thick you can barely see it. Continue walking toward Columbia and you'll find the Main Wall at the south end of Chickies Rock. "Trail Valley" is the path along the base of the cliff just to the left of the Main Wall.
Please reach out to SCPC in regards to the relationship between climbers and LCPR. SCPC has worked hard to keep a positive relationship with them and knows about the most current access/crag conditions. Thank you!
Bat Conservation | How You Can Help
See a Bat on a Route, Give Us a Shout!
Hey Chickies climbers, Ken Hull here from Access Fund and South Central PA Climbers. I’m working with Rob Schorr, a researcher at Colorado State University, to help him spread the word on his bat research. Here’s a message from him about this important work and how we, as climbers, can help.
“Climbers for Bat Conservation is working with climbers to understand bat ecology and why bats choose certain cracks and flakes. We’re a collaboration between climbers, bat biologists, and land managers to understand where bats roost and where large populations may reside. We are interested in finding bats because of a new disease called white-nose syndrome (whitenosesyndrome.org) which has killed millions of bats in North America. This collaboration has identified bat roosts throughout the U.S., and as far away as Norway and Bulgaria. CBC was developed by biologists who climb and they are advocates for climbing access and bat conservation.
So, if you see bats while climbing, please let us know by emailing us at firstname.lastname@example.org, or visiting our website to learn more. climbersforbats.colostate.edu.”
Zoologist, Colorado Natural Heritage Program (warnercnr.colostate.edu/rschorr/)
Director, Climbers for Bat Conservation
Classic Climbing Routes at Chickies Rock
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