Elevation: 258 ft
GPS: 40.058, -76.531 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 52,612 total · 347/month
Shared By: Ross Purnell on Feb 14, 2008
Admins: Justin Johnsen, William Sonoma, SCPC

Description

Chickies Rock is a traditional climbing crag on cliffs rising over the east bank of the Susquehanna River. It has single- and multi-pitch routes, ranging from 5.0 to 5.10+ or 5.11-, on Lower Cambrian Chickies Quartzite. It's popular to climb on top rope on the Main Face, with slings and trad protection to build anchors; you'll find no bolts in areas where you can walk on/walk off. On the far south end there are easy slabs to teach beginners and children the fundamentals of climbing.
There is a popular bouldering area called "The Cave" and not far away, in the Trail Valley area, there is a 3-pitch climb with bolted belayed stations that finishes on the steep face on one of the highest points of Chickies Rock. If you like topping out at a popular tourist outlook, this one is for you.
The crag is in Chickies Rock County Park with plenty of parking and a flat, well-developed paved bike trail. Access does not come easier than Chickies Rock.
Chickies Rock is the largest exposed anticline on the East Coast. According to USGS, the summit of the ridge is 587 feet (179 metres) above sea level. At its highest point the rock is about 250 feet tall. On the face where the main crowd climbs, the cliff is about 150 feet. Maybe 75-100 feet up to Riverview Ledge, and then another 50 feet up The Block if you try for a second pitch; very few people do that. The climb straight up the center of The Block is an excellent 5.8 called Ape Call that is rarely climbed.
This is a trad area. If you set up top ropes on Riverview ledge, allow ground-up leaders to climb through, and share the lines with other parties. It's generally a friendly group of people eager to share the Chickies Rock experience.

Getting There

Park at the new Furnace Road parking area for Northwest Lancaster County River Trail (NLCRT). There are signs on Route 441 in Marietta to guide you. If you are in doubt, the county has provided this map: co.lancaster.pa.us/Document…
Follow the NLCRT east and south (downriver), use the bridge to cross Chiques Creek, and follow the paved path until you get to the cliff. The first area you encounter to the left is the Northwest Buttress. Sometimes the trees and bushes are so thick you can barely see it. Continue walking toward Columbia and you'll find the Main Wall at the south end of Chickies Rock. "Trail Valley" is the path along the base of the cliff just to the left of the Main Wall. 

Rock Type

Lower Cambrian Chickies Quartzite : "light-gray to white, hard, massive quartzite and quartz schist with thin interbedded dark slate at top."

Governance

Lancaster County Department of Parks and Recreation;q=518276

Please reach out to SCPC in regards to the relationship between climbers and LCPR. SCPC has worked hard to keep a positive relationship with them and knows about the most current access/crag conditions. Thank you!

34 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Chickies Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V5-6 6C+
 3
The Exorcist
Boulder
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
 45
Witches Brew
Trad 2 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 26
The Library
Trad, TR
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
 4
Snowflake Variation 1
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 3
Drop Out
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 7
Hit and Run
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 9
The Undercling
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 10
Josh's Hump
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 11
For Madmen Only
TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 14
Hollywood
Trad, TR 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 3
Ape Call
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 7
The Lower Undercling
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 10
Lester the Molester
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 5
Chickies Direct
Trad 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Exorcist Cave
 3
V5-6 6C+ Boulder
Witches Brew Main Wall
 45
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13 Trad 2 pitches
The Library Main Wall
 26
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR
Snowflake Variation 1 Main Wall
 4
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 Trad
Drop Out Northwest Buttress
 3
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
Hit and Run Northwest Buttress
 7
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
The Undercling Main Wall
 9
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Josh's Hump Main Wall
 10
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad
For Madmen Only Main Wall
 11
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R TR
Hollywood Main Wall
 14
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR 2 pitches
Ape Call Block
 3
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad, TR
The Lower Undercling Main Wall
 7
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Lester the Molester Main Wall
 10
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Chickies Direct Trail Valley
 5
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
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