Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Main Wall

For Madmen Only TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Hollywood T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Josh's Hump T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Lester the Molester T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Library, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lower Undercling, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Main Street T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Notch, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nuts T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Nuts Corner Wandering Variation G T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Snowflake T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Sunday Morning T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Undercling, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Witches Brew T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Type: Trad, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,679 total · 26/month
Shared By: Ross Purnell on Jun 17, 2009
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp

You & This Route


37 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

I have seen different descriptions of Witches Brew and Witches Brew Direct. In my opinion, "Direct" is the only version worth considering. Any escape to the left or right does not make the climbing any easier, and you miss the best part of the climb.

Due to the length of the climb, the first time I did this I did it in two pitches, setting up a belay on the loose ledges at the base of the chimney. Don't do this. There is tons of loose rock on these ledges, rope management here sends showers of rocks down on to your belayer. I strongly suggest leading this climb in one long 160-foot pitch. the climbing is very easy, use some longer slings.

Climb the crack system using larger gear to the base of the Witches Brew Chimney (5.3). Climb the chimney--the key piece of pro will be on the south wall of the chimney--horizontal crack takes a pink Tri-cam or small C4.

Do not climb to the top of the chimney. You will get trapped under a chockstone. Instead, climb about 2/3 way up, then exit the chimney by stepping around the north corner onto the sunny exposed face to the left of the chimney (5.3). Easy climbing to the top.

PS. Please do not tie two ropes together and use this climb as a top tope. This is a nice easy lead for aspiring trad climbers. It doesn't make sense to tope rope such an easy climb.

Location

At the far left (north) side of the Main Wall there is a small buttress--20 feet left of that there is a large tree at the base of a major crack system. This large crack system is 30-40 left of the small Main Street crack. If you back up to the railroad tracks you'll see the crack ends in a ledge area with lots of loose, broken rock and then directly above that there is a nice chimney finish.

Protection

There is a large tree on top to use as a belay. Walk off or use a two-rope rappel. A single 60M rappel will not make the ground.

Photos

Hyo Byun
  5.5 PG13
Hyo Byun  
  5.5 PG13
Pretty fun climb. LONG. Take more gear and extended slings than you think you'll need. Also a good excuse to take your #5 up.

Chimney requires more thought than a 5.3. At the top, gear placements aren't great. Used the tree mentioned above & a chock stone (not the same one atop the chimney), but required every bit of a 30ft cord.

Also be prepared for kids instagraming you as pull the summit. Feb 19, 2017
minquatrails
Lancaster PA
  5.3 PG13
minquatrails   Lancaster PA
  5.3 PG13
Lead this for the first time yesterday. Great fun.

As a new(er) trad leader here are my thoughts -

As mentioned above; be mindful of rope drag. Basically extend everything w/ a long sling. I don't usually find good hex placements but I was very glad to have them on this climb.

This is a very looong climb. Make sure you have a full trad rack because you'll use a lot of gear. May 16, 2014
Paul Chrastina
Dover, Pennsylvania
Paul Chrastina   Dover, Pennsylvania
Unless things have changed since the early 80s, stemming to the top of the chimney and pulling out and over the chockstone is hard, but not impossible. Mar 29, 2011
Tyrel Fuller
Denver, CO
  5.0 PG13
Tyrel Fuller   Denver, CO
  5.0 PG13
there is an old piton near the top of the chimney , just above the horizontal. Jan 27, 2011
Larry S
Easton, Pennsylvania
 
Larry S   Easton, Pennsylvania
 
A good fun climb. Possible belay right where it starts to really slab in or right at the base of the chimney. Or run it straight to the top. Large hexes (7-10) fit PERFECT in this climb. A .75 and a #1 camalot help protect the chimney and moves around onto the face. I recommend the #1 in the chockstone with a long sling and then traverse left out to the face. The moves are easy, but without that a fall here would probably get you pretty well hurt. Jun 30, 2010
Frank T
  5.4 PG13
Frank T  
  5.4 PG13
Good description! this was my first lead at Chickies. Be careful of rope drag and you can get to the top in one long pitch. helmets are a must! Jun 20, 2009