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Routes in Main Wall

For Madmen Only TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Hollywood T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Josh's Hump T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Lester the Molester T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Library, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lower Undercling, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Main Street T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Notch, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nuts T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Nuts Corner Wandering Variation G T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Snowflake T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Sunday Morning T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Undercling, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Witches Brew T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Type: Trad, TR, 120 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 475 total, 6/month
Shared By: Justin Johnsen on Sep 5, 2011
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp

You & This Route


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Description

Same start as Sunday Morning, and the Undercling. 15 feet to the right of the Library dihedral is a smooth orange and black slab broken by a left-to-right trending crack. This is the Sunday Morning Crack. Follow the crack up a short way. Before the roof/overhang, follow the lowest obvious flake/undercling, and traverse left (crux).Follow the arete up and trend right on the next two horizontal ledges. Finish the climb with bouldery moves in the vertical crack on the black face on the center of the south-facing wall.

Protection

Standard rack, I haven't lead it, but the guides say good protection for this alternate line of Sunday Morning.

Gear and slings for TR anchor.

Photos

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Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.8
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.8
Used the Hollywood crack to move up to the undercling...seemed more aesthetic and fun this way. No pro till you get to the crack though. Basically followed the arĂȘte after the undercling moves. Fun and airy. Oct 3, 2017