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Routes in Main Wall

For Madmen Only TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Hollywood T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Josh's Hump T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Lester the Molester T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Library, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lower Undercling, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Main Street T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Notch, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nuts T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Nuts Corner Wandering Variation G T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Snowflake T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Sunday Morning T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Undercling, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Witches Brew T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Type: Trad, 200 ft
FA: Ross Purnell
Page Views: 1,191 total, 12/month
Shared By: Ross Purnell on Jun 17, 2009
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp

You & This Route


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Description

Main Street Crack ends below a small tree/bush where most people escape right to Riverview Ledge. Josh's Hump continues straight up short slabby section of rock below The Great Roof to a stance in the left corner under the roof. Microstoppers or a #00 Camalot buys you some protection here before a scary traverse to the left out on a prominent, light-colored arete. The is the arete where Josh Laudermilch (seconding my lead) stopped to hug and/or hump the arete. Use a long runner on the gear in the corner to avoid rope drag on The Great Roof above.
We regularly do this route in one pitch with long slings, especially under the roof. Communication with your second is difficult when you are on the summit and your second is under The Great Roof.
Note: You can also start on Witches Brew, and move right up under the Great Roof before you head into the Chimney.

Location

Near the left side of the Main Wall about 30 to 40 feet to the left of the Library dihedral look for the long, left-leaning crack system that starts just to the right of the small buttress. (The other side of the buttress near the tree is Witches Brew.)

Protection

No fixed gear. Extra small stuff required for the crux moves under the Great Roof.
EC Jonathan
  5.7 PG13
EC Jonathan  
  5.7 PG13
Pink tricam and small purple nut allow one to bomber protect the upper crux traverse, but still need long slings to avoid rope drag. Sep 14, 2017