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Routes in Main Wall

For Madmen Only TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Hollywood T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Josh's Hump T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Lester the Molester T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Library, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lower Undercling, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Main Street T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Notch, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nuts T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Nuts Corner Wandering Variation G T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Snowflake T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Sunday Morning T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Undercling, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Witches Brew T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
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Elevation: 300 ft
GPS: 40.052, -76.525 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 9,155 total · 82/month
Shared By: Ross Purnell on Jun 15, 2009
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp, SCPC
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Description

This is the main climbing area at the south end of Chickies Rock facing the river. It's most notable feature is Riverview Ledge, a convenient place to set up top ropes, or continue a second pitch up The Block above the ledge. There are a couple of railway buildings along the tracks here.

Although there's lots of different Top-Ropable climbing lines all over the south + west sides of the lower Main wall, there's not much space on the Riverview ledge for traditional Top-Rope anchors once multiple parties show up. So be prepared to share. And remember, somebody in each party needs to really know what they're doing with setting up Trad top-rope anchors.

For top-roping, the historic route names (like given on this website) don't have much meaning, since the old routes wander around side-to-side more than most top-rope climbers -- and usually multiple worthwhile lines can be done from the same top-rope anchor.

Main Wall routes and variations, left to right:

  • Too Easy 5.4 G (2 pitches)
  • Witches Brew 5.3 G (2 pitches)
  • Kissing Wall 5.5 PG (Witches Brew variation, 2 pitches)
  • Main Street 5.5 PG
  • Lester Molester 5.8 X
  • For Madmen Only 5.7 X
  • Touch and Go 5.9 R
  • The Library 5.5 PG
  • Snow Flake 5.4 PG (The Library variation)
  • The Notch 5.9 PG
  • Sunday Morning 5.4 G
  • The Undercling 5.6 G (Sunday Morning variation)
  • The Lower Undercling 5.8 G (Sunday Morning variation)
  • Hollywood 5.7 PG
  • Train Wreck 5.7 PG (Sunday Morning variation)
  • Shrimp Scampered 5.5 G
  • Train Station 5.1
  • Nuts 5.4 PG (2 pitches)

Getting There

Park at the new Furnace Road parking area for Northwest Lancaster County River Trail (NLCRT). There are signs on Route 441 in Marietta to guide you. If you are in doubt, the county has provided this map: co.lancaster.pa.us/Document…
Follow the NLCRT east and south (downriver) until you get to the cliff. The first area you encounter is the Northwest Buttress. The Main Wall is the open sunny face at the far end (on the way to Columbia).

14 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Main Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
 39
Witches Brew
Trad 2 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 22
The Library
Trad, TR
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
 4
Snowflake
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 8
The Undercling
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 10
Josh's Hump
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 10
For Madmen Only
TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 12
Hollywood
Trad, TR 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 6
The Lower Undercling
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 10
Lester the Molester
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Witches Brew
 39
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13 Trad 2 pitches
The Library
 22
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR
Snowflake
 4
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 Trad
The Undercling
 8
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Josh's Hump
 10
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad
For Madmen Only
 10
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R TR
Hollywood
 12
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR 2 pitches
The Lower Undercling
 6
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Lester the Molester
 10
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
More Classic Climbs in Main Wall »

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Photos

Justin Johnsen
Sacramento, CA
Justin Johnsen   Sacramento, CA  
Reading Rocks has a route guide for the Main Wall here on their website. Oct 20, 2010
kenr  
Although there's lots of different Top-Ropable climbing lines all over the south + west sides of the lower Main wall, there's not much space on the Riverview ledge for traditional Top-Rope anchors once multiple parties show up. So be prepared to share. And remember, somebody in each party needs to really know what they're doing with setting up Trad top-rope anchors.

For top-roping, the historic route names (like given on this website) don't have much meaning, since the old routes wander around side-to-side more than most top-rope climbers -- and usually multiple worthwhile lines can be done from the same top-rope anchor.

The popular Riverview ledge is not so easy to access from parking near the top of the cliff, but the bottom access reocommended in the description is from parking alongside route 441 (not 443). May 16, 2012
minquatrails
Lancaster PA
minquatrails   Lancaster PA
I noticed 2 bolts on the River View Ledge. I'm not sure why they were put there as I've seen gear anchors built right next to the bolts. Maybe because RVL gets too crowded as mentioned above?

I'm not opposed to the judicious use of bolts at Chickies and I'll happily use them. Given Chickies long history of climbing, its hard to see why it needs (many) bolts. I've heard that the fire department as installed some bolts for training purposes.

Anybody have info on the new bolts? Just curious. Thanks! Aug 3, 2013
There is now a parking lot downhill from the old pull off. It is actually easier now to park there. The police can ticket you if you are on the side of the road as it is now marked NO Parking. May 1, 2015
Just f.y.i. for those who have relied on the bolts that were located on the River View ledge, they are no longer there. Also gone is some of the graffiti, which is great to have cleaned up. May 28, 2017
Bryan Eyers
Rockville, MD
Bryan Eyers   Rockville, MD
Confirm bolts on the ledge are gone. The bolts at the very top (The Block, 160 ft) make for an easy rappel to the ledge; but it's more timely to just walk.

The River View ledge is best accessed by scrambling half way up the east side dirt, then following a line of flat diagonal rocks back towards the river. Apr 4, 2018

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