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Main Wall Rock Climbing
Routes in Main Wall
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For Madmen Only TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Hollywood T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Josh's Hump T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Lester the Molester T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Library, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Lower Undercling, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Main Street T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Notch, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Nuts T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Nuts Corner Wandering Variation G T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Snowflake T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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Sunday Morning T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Undercling, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Witches Brew T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13 |
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| Elevation: | 300 ft |
| GPS: | 40.052, -76.525 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 9,155 total · 82/month |
| Shared By: | Ross Purnell on Jun 15, 2009 |
| Admins: | Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp, SCPC |
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Description
This is the main climbing area at the south end of Chickies Rock facing the river. It's most notable feature is Riverview Ledge, a convenient place to set up top ropes, or continue a second pitch up The Block above the ledge. There are a couple of railway buildings along the tracks here.
Although there's lots of different Top-Ropable climbing lines all over the south + west sides of the lower Main wall, there's not much space on the Riverview ledge for traditional Top-Rope anchors once multiple parties show up. So be prepared to share. And remember, somebody in each party needs to really know what they're doing with setting up Trad top-rope anchors.
For top-roping, the historic route names (like given on this website) don't have much meaning, since the old routes wander around side-to-side more than most top-rope climbers -- and usually multiple worthwhile lines can be done from the same top-rope anchor.
Main Wall routes and variations, left to right:
Although there's lots of different Top-Ropable climbing lines all over the south + west sides of the lower Main wall, there's not much space on the Riverview ledge for traditional Top-Rope anchors once multiple parties show up. So be prepared to share. And remember, somebody in each party needs to really know what they're doing with setting up Trad top-rope anchors.
For top-roping, the historic route names (like given on this website) don't have much meaning, since the old routes wander around side-to-side more than most top-rope climbers -- and usually multiple worthwhile lines can be done from the same top-rope anchor.
Main Wall routes and variations, left to right:
- Too Easy 5.4 G (2 pitches)
- Witches Brew 5.3 G (2 pitches)
- Kissing Wall 5.5 PG (Witches Brew variation, 2 pitches)
- Main Street 5.5 PG
- Lester Molester 5.8 X
- For Madmen Only 5.7 X
- Touch and Go 5.9 R
- The Library 5.5 PG
- Snow Flake 5.4 PG (The Library variation)
- The Notch 5.9 PG
- Sunday Morning 5.4 G
- The Undercling 5.6 G (Sunday Morning variation)
- The Lower Undercling 5.8 G (Sunday Morning variation)
- Hollywood 5.7 PG
- Train Wreck 5.7 PG (Sunday Morning variation)
- Shrimp Scampered 5.5 G
- Train Station 5.1
- Nuts 5.4 PG (2 pitches)
Getting There
Park at the new Furnace Road parking area for Northwest Lancaster County River Trail (NLCRT). There are signs on Route 441 in Marietta to guide you. If you are in doubt, the county has provided this map: co.lancaster.pa.us/Document…
Follow the NLCRT east and south (downriver) until you get to the cliff. The first area you encounter is the Northwest Buttress. The Main Wall is the open sunny face at the far end (on the way to Columbia).
Follow the NLCRT east and south (downriver) until you get to the cliff. The first area you encounter is the Northwest Buttress. The Main Wall is the open sunny face at the far end (on the way to Columbia).
Classic Climbing Routes at Main Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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6 Comments
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Guidebooks (8)
Sacramento, CA
For top-roping, the historic route names (like given on this website) don't have much meaning, since the old routes wander around side-to-side more than most top-rope climbers -- and usually multiple worthwhile lines can be done from the same top-rope anchor.
The popular Riverview ledge is not so easy to access from parking near the top of the cliff, but the bottom access reocommended in the description is from parking alongside route 441 (not 443). May 16, 2012
Lancaster PA
I'm not opposed to the judicious use of bolts at Chickies and I'll happily use them. Given Chickies long history of climbing, its hard to see why it needs (many) bolts. I've heard that the fire department as installed some bolts for training purposes.
Anybody have info on the new bolts? Just curious. Thanks! Aug 3, 2013
Rockville, MD
The River View ledge is best accessed by scrambling half way up the east side dirt, then following a line of flat diagonal rocks back towards the river. Apr 4, 2018