Elevation: 300 ft
GPS: 40.052, -76.525 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 22,733 total · 151/month
Shared By: Ross Purnell on Jun 15, 2009
Admins: SCPC, SWPACC, EPAC, Justin Johnsen

Description

This is the main climbing area at the south end of Chickies Rock facing the river. It's most notable feature is Riverview Ledge, a convenient place to set up top ropes, or continue a second pitch up The Block above the ledge. There are a couple of railway buildings along the tracks here.

Although there's lots of different Top-Ropable climbing lines all over the south + west sides of the lower Main wall, there's not much space on the Riverview ledge for traditional Top-Rope anchors once multiple parties show up. So be prepared to share. And remember, somebody in each party needs to really know what they're doing with setting up Trad top-rope anchors.

For top-roping, the historic route names (like given on this website) don't have much meaning, since the old routes wander around side-to-side more than most top-rope climbers -- and usually multiple worthwhile lines can be done from the same top-rope anchor.

Main Wall routes and variations, left to right:

  • Too Easy 5.4 G (2 pitches)
  • Witches Brew 5.3 G (2 pitches)
  • Kissing Wall 5.5 PG (Witches Brew variation, 2 pitches)
  • Main Street 5.5 PG
  • Lester Molester 5.8 X
  • For Madmen Only 5.7 X
  • Touch and Go 5.9 R
  • The Library 5.5 PG
  • Snow Flake 5.4 PG (The Library variation)
  • The Notch 5.9 PG
  • Sunday Morning 5.4 G
  • The Undercling 5.6 G (Sunday Morning variation)
  • The Lower Undercling 5.8 G (Sunday Morning variation)
  • Hollywood 5.7 PG
  • Train Wreck 5.7 PG (Sunday Morning variation)
  • Shrimp Scampered 5.5 G
  • Train Station 5.1
  • Nuts 5.4 PG (2 pitches)

Getting There

Park at the new Furnace Road parking area for Northwest Lancaster County River Trail (NLCRT). There are signs on Route 441 in Marietta to guide you. If you are in doubt, the county has provided this map: co.lancaster.pa.us/Document…
Follow the NLCRT east and south (downriver) until you get to the cliff. The first area you encounter is the Northwest Buttress. The Main Wall is the open sunny face at the far end (on the way to Columbia).

15 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Main Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
 48
Witches Brew
Trad 2 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 28
The Library
Trad, TR
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
 6
Snowflake Variation 1
Trad
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 3
Nuts
Trad, TR 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
 27
Main Street
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 10
The Undercling
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 14
Josh's Hump
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 13
For Madmen Only
TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 16
Hollywood
Trad, TR 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 7
The Lower Undercling
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 10
[Redacted]
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
The Notch
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Witches Brew
 48
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13 Trad 2 pitches
The Library
 28
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR
Snowflake Variation 1
 6
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 Trad
Nuts
 3
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR 2 pitches
Main Street
 27
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 Trad
The Undercling
 10
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Josh's Hump
 14
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad
For Madmen Only
 13
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R TR
Hollywood
 16
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR 2 pitches
The Lower Undercling
 7
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
[Redacted]
 10
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
The Notch
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
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