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Routes in Main Wall

For Madmen Only TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Hollywood T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Josh's Hump T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Lester the Molester T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Library, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lower Undercling, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Main Street T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Notch, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nuts T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Nuts Corner Wandering Variation G T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Snowflake T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Sunday Morning T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Undercling, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Witches Brew T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,461 total, 14/month
Shared By: Ross Purnell on Jun 15, 2009
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

The 5.7 grade applies only to the crux(es) which are the undercling move, and at the top, following the vertical crack in the black face. You can easily maneuver around these cruxes to arrive at the same place. An easy top-rope version would probably go 5.5 due to the roof (i.e. Sunday Morning).

Location

15 feet to the right of the Library dihedral is a smooth orange and black slab broken by a left-to-right trending crack. This is the Sunday Morning Crack. Follow the crack up to the roof/overhand. Pull past the roof on the left. Above the roof, look for an obvious flake/undercling, and traverse left to the arete using this undercling. Follow the arete up and trend right on the next two horizontal ledges. Finish the climb with bouldery moves in the vertical crack on the black face on the center of the south-facing wall.

Protection

This is probably the best lead at Chickies. The pro is solid, and the falls are clean at all the difficult spots.
kenr  
The obvious easier leadable line is not more than 5.4, as Larry S says, and I believe that's the line called "Sunday Morning". May 16, 2012
Larry S
Easton, Pennsylvania
Larry S   Easton, Pennsylvania
This actually describes a route called "The Undercling". Sunday Morning (5.4) continues past the overhang over easy ground to a notch and up to the top. The moves past that little roof are a bit of a sandbag at 5.4 and I don't feel the pro at the roof is great (behind thin flakes), but it's a fun climb. Other routes share this start as well, Train Wreck (5.7) goes up the center of the face after the roof, while Lower Undercling goes out to the arete via the small flake below the roof. Jun 30, 2010