All Locations > Pennsylvania > S Central PA > Chickies Rock > Main Wall

The Undercling

Name: The Undercling
Rating: 2.5

5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British

Routes in Main Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	For Madmen Only TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Great Roof (aka Inverted V), The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	Hollywood T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Jim's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
	Josh's Hump T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Kissing Booth T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Library, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Lichengerie T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Lower Undercling, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Main Street T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
	Notch, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Nuts T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Patty and Lester T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Peter's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
	Snowflake Direct T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Snowflake Variation 1 T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
	Sunday Afternoon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Sunday Morning T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Too Easy T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
	Undercling, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Witches Brew T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
	Zig Zag T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

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Type:	Trad, TR, 80 ft (24 m)
GPS:	40.05153, -76.52507
FA:	unknown
Page Views:	2,870 total · 14/month
Shared By:	Ross Purnell on Jun 15, 2009
Admins:	Justin Johnsen, SCPC, SWPACC, EPAC Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

The 5.7 grade applies only to the crux(es) which are the undercling move, and at the top, following the vertical crack in the black face. You can easily maneuver around these cruxes to arrive at the same place. An easy top-rope version would probably go 5.5 due to the roof (i.e. Sunday Morning).

Location

15 feet to the right of the Library dihedral is a smooth orange and black slab broken by a left-to-right trending crack. This is the Sunday Morning Crack. Follow the crack up to the roof/overhand. Pull past the roof on the left. Above the roof, look for an obvious flake/undercling, and traverse left to the arete using this undercling. Follow the arete up and trend right on the next two horizontal ledges. Finish the climb with bouldery moves in the vertical crack on the black face on the center of the south-facing wall.