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Routes in Main Wall

For Madmen Only TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Hollywood T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Josh's Hump T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Lester the Molester T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Library, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lower Undercling, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Main Street T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Notch, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nuts T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Nuts Corner Wandering Variation G T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Snowflake T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Sunday Morning T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Undercling, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Witches Brew T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Type: Trad, 160 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 245 total, 2/month
Shared By: Ross Purnell on Jun 17, 2009
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp

You & This Route


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One of the best trad leads at Chickies

The Main Street Crack is the most obvious crack system just to the right of Witches Brew, and left of the face climbs Lester the Molester and Madmen Only. It's a great climbing crack system but does not extend all the way to the ground. If you are leading, the crux moves are just off the ground. You'll get your first piece a .75" Camalot while standing on a prominent light-colored ledge/notch 12 feet directly above the start. The best part of the climb is an obvious diagonal finger crack in a block near the finish of the climb. The crack ends on a small ledge near a small tree/bush. From the bush, you can move left into Witches Brew, finish straight up on the climb Josh's Hump, trend up and right and finish in the notch at the right side of the Great Roof, or you can traverse right and escape onto Riverview Ledge. Main Street is one of the great trad climbs of Chickies Rock and cannot be top-roped. You must lead it. It needs to be climbed more often, please climb this frequently and help clean dirt and grass to keep it climbable.

Location

Near the left side of the Main Wall about 30 to 40 feet to the left of the Library dihedral look for the long, left-leaning crack system that starts just to the right of the small buttress. (The other side of the buttress near the tree is Witches Brew.)

Protection

No fixed gear. Use a spotter for the moves right off the ground. Once you get that first piece and get into the crack, there's an endless amount of awesome gear. Takes nuts, large tries-cams, hexes or whatever else you've got.

Photos

Ross Purnell
Palmyra
 
Ross Purnell   Palmyra
 
Just commenting on Larry's comment above which was dead on in 2010. But there's been a lot of erosion at the top of Chickies Rock and the tree he mentioned is now gone. You'll need to build a gear anchor at the summit . Sep 18, 2017
Larry S
Easton, Pennsylvania
Larry S   Easton, Pennsylvania
A great route. Starts just right of a small inside corner. The start is a bit runout, but pretty easy. I recommend doing it in one pitch. Some parties head right and end at the ledge, but going through the right end of the roof is the best part of the climb. I usually tie off a tree about 20 feet back with the rope and back it up with some gear right at the edge to bring up my second. Jun 30, 2010