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Routes in Main Wall

For Madmen Only TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Hollywood T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Josh's Hump T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Lester the Molester T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Library, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lower Undercling, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Main Street T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Notch, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nuts T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Nuts Corner Wandering Variation G T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Snowflake T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Sunday Morning T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Undercling, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Witches Brew T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,507 total, 15/month
Shared By: Ross Purnell on Jun 15, 2009
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp

You & This Route


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The Real Library Climbs Both Open Books

Look for the large dihedral at the base of the cliff. The Library climbs the first dihedral then moves left into the upper "open book" just below the left side of Riverview Ledge. This second dihedral is one of the best features at Chickies Rock with slabby feet on the left, and spaced-out feet on the arete to the right. It is stemming magic with a continuous vertical crack at the back of the dihedral that takes solid gear, and a final horizontal crack to protect the crux roof moves at the top. Because of the traversing nature of this climb, most top-rope climbers miss the stem moves of the final dihedral, and instead finish with the large broken crack system called Snowflake.

Protection

No fixed gear. Easy to set up top rope on Riverview Ledge. The Library is also a good beginner lead. Use small nuts in the corner.

Photos

Ross Purnell
Palmyra
 
Ross Purnell   Palmyra
 
KenR The step across into the dihedral is straightforward and protected by a perfect #1 red Camalot.
Definitely a 5.4 no harder. I've spent much of the summer spraying weedkiller and cleaning the crack at the back of the corner so the protection situation is better than ever. Instead of clumps of grass, you have a place for gear. This is the best beginner lead climb at Chickies. Witches Brew is a grade easier but the loose rock section in the middle is horrible. Sep 2, 2017
kenr  
Very delicate move getting into the bottom of the lower dihedral / open book. I'd say at least 5.6. Maybe there's a 5.4 way to do it if work out exactly the correct holds in the right sequence On top-rope perhaps it doesn't matter, just put the climber on tension to get them thru it. But

Leading ... the idea that a starting 5.4 leader is going to figure out the sequence while scared is not a good bet. Note that at least one on-line guidebook says the pro is fairly tricky on this route, recommends against beginning leaders trying it.

I think the more frequently-done finish mentioned above (hand-traverse R at top of dihedral then up to the top, is called "Snow Flake". (The overhang at the top of the lower dihedral goes at no more than 5.6) May 16, 2012