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Areas in Stanage Edge

Apparent North 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
B.A.W.s Area 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Black Hawk Area 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Christmas Crack 22 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 22
Count's Area 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Goliath's Area 16 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16
High Neb Area, The 9 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Left-Hand End, The 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Mississippi Area 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Plantation Bouldering 0 / 0 / 0 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Secret Stanage 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Unconquerables Area, The 14 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14

Description

Without a doubt, Stanage Edge is one of the great crags of England, if not the world. Where it lacks in height, it makes up for in diversity and volume. On Peak Rock describes Stanage as "Gritsone at its best" and one would be hard pressed to argue with that. The rock is absolutely bomber, the number of classic routes and problems is staggering and the views perfectly English.

The Edge runs roughly north south, and has several recognised sub areas. These are reflected here:

Getting There

Most of the minor roads east of Hathersage (to the West of Sheffield) lead up to the crag. Try the one past The Scotsman's Pack for starters.

97 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Stanage Edge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V4 6B
Not To Be Taken Away
Boulder
V8 7B
Deliverance
Boulder
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Flying Buttress
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Heaven Crack
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mississippi Buttress Direct
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Right Unconquerable
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Goliath's Groove
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Left Unconquerable
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Flying Buttress Direct
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Not To Be Taken Away Plantation Bouldering
V4 6B Boulder
Deliverance Plantation Bouldering
V8 7B Boulder
Flying Buttress Christmas Crack > Flying Buttress
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Heaven Crack B.A.W.s Area > Saliva Buttress
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Mississippi Buttress Direct Mississippi Area > Mississippi Buttress
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Right Unconquerable Unconquerables Area > Unconquerable Buttress
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Goliath's Groove Goliath's Area > Goliath's Groove Area
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Left Unconquerable Unconquerables Area > Unconquerable Buttress
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Flying Buttress Direct Christmas Crack > Flying Buttress
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad
More Classic Climbs in Stanage Edge »

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Photos

lm610
Nottingham
lm610   Nottingham
Read my the first part of my Stanage Review
gachieve.blogspot.com/ Jul 10, 2011
rdlennon
New Hampshire
rdlennon   New Hampshire
The Rockfax guide is a great resource for locating routes and determining grades. There are not many pictures and the descriptions aren't comprehensive, however. Best to buy a guidebook (Stanage: The Definitive Guide is the best) once you get to the UK. Nov 17, 2008

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