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Routes in Mississippi Buttress

Congo Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Link, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mississippi Buttress Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mississippi Variant T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Roy Horseman 1927
Page Views: 698 total, 6/month
Shared By: rdlennon on Nov 16, 2008
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell

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Description

One of the best VS routes at Stanage and one of my favorite routes of all time. Sustained, varied, steep, aesthetic- this is the definition of classic. The climb generally follows a left facing flake system in a shallow corner on the face of Mississippi Buttress. Make a bouldery start on angular, slightly overhanging sandstone fins to gain a bridging rest. Here the rock begins to feel more like grit. Using a series of hand jams, improbably high steps, and bold smears on the left side of the corner, layback your way past a series of tricky bulges to gain a low-angle ladder of flakes. Hike these to the summit.

Location

Takes the shallow inside corner smack in the middle of the hulking Mississippi Buttress, just right of Congo Corner. Descend via a gully left of the Buttress.

Protection

Can easily be done with passive gear. Plenty of finger width cracks and slots on this one.

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