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Routes in Mississippi Buttress

Congo Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Link, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mississippi Buttress Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mississippi Variant T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Roy Horseman 1927
Page Views: 723 total · 6/month
Shared By: rdlennon on Nov 16, 2008
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron

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Description [Suggest Change]

One of the best VS routes at Stanage and one of my favorite routes of all time. Sustained, varied, steep, aesthetic- this is the definition of classic. The climb generally follows a left facing flake system in a shallow corner on the face of Mississippi Buttress. Make a bouldery start on angular, slightly overhanging sandstone fins to gain a bridging rest. Here the rock begins to feel more like grit. Using a series of hand jams, improbably high steps, and bold smears on the left side of the corner, layback your way past a series of tricky bulges to gain a low-angle ladder of flakes. Hike these to the summit.

Location [Suggest Change]

Takes the shallow inside corner smack in the middle of the hulking Mississippi Buttress, just right of Congo Corner. Descend via a gully left of the Buttress.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Can easily be done with passive gear. Plenty of finger width cracks and slots on this one.

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