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Routes in Chica Bonita Wall

Baby Blue Eyes S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Be My Yoko Ono T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Bessie S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Brolo El Cunado S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Brown Eyed Girl S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cheaper Than a Movie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cold Hard Bitch S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cold Hard Bitch S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Colt 45 S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dude Abides, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flying The Bird S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fresh off the Bone S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Good Gravy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hellava Caucasian S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hot Drama Teacher S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
I'll Take Sue S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
King Cobra S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Laying Pipe under the Bridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lets get drunk and think about it T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mary Pop-Parazzi S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Old English S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pocahontas Path S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Raindancer S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ridin' the Short Buzz S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rinse and Repeat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
She Might be a Liar S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Size Doesn't Matter S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spice of Life, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
That's What She Said S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
When Rats Attack S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
You Take Sally S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:

Description

This crag is a relatively new addition to climbing at The Red. The wall is host to a mixture of trad and sport routes. Chica Bonita is a good wall for more moderate climbing, as the routes tend to be vertical slabs rather than overhanging pumpers. Ratings range from 5.8 - 5.11. Some of the routes have not seen a lot of traffic and can be slightly dirty, but the rock is of good quality and should clean up with time.

Getting There

From the parking for "Bob Marley", etc...hike back down the road you came in on. After about one hundred feet, two roads will head left up the hill. Take the road on the right. Continue up this road to the top of the hill. Here you will see an old oil pump near a small cliff. Take a trail right and down around the cliff to the wall. The approach should take about 10 minutes.

31 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Chica Bonita Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 27
Be My Yoko Ono
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 156
Cheaper Than a Movie
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 22
Brolo El Cunado
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 97
Ridin' the Short Buzz
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 221
Brown Eyed Girl
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 9
The Spice of Life
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Good Gravy
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 21
Old English
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 83
Baby Blue Eyes
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 5
Size Doesn't Matter
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 36
The Dude Abides
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 6
Fresh off the Bone
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 8
You Take Sally
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 6
Cold Hard Bitch
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Be My Yoko Ono
 27
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad
Cheaper Than a Movie
 156
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Brolo El Cunado
 22
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Ridin' the Short Buzz
 97
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Brown Eyed Girl
 221
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
The Spice of Life
 9
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Good Gravy
 4
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Old English
 21
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Baby Blue Eyes
 83
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Size Doesn't Matter
 5
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
The Dude Abides
 36
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Fresh off the Bone
 6
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
You Take Sally
 8
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Cold Hard Bitch
 6
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
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Word of warning for those planning to use the approach info in the red river gorge south book to find this wall. We were one of three groups in an hour who showed up to Chica Bonita after having gotten terribly lost trying to follow the book's approach beta. I plan to write to the editors so that they can update the beta, but until then, the approach info on this page is pretty solid. This page says you'll see two roads on your left going uphill: the one on the left is very overgrown and looks miserable; once you start hiking up the road on the right you'll see a sign confirming that you're headed to Chica Bonita. Unfortunately this sign is currently hidden by plant life and easy to miss. Sep 6, 2015

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