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Elevation: 1,004 ft 306 m
GPS: 37.65078, -83.72161
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 103,547 total · 493/month
Shared By: e Dixon on Nov 19, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek

Description Suggest change

The wall is host to a mixture of trad and sport routes. Chica Bonita is a good wall for more moderate climbing, as the routes tend to be vertical slabs rather than overhanging pumpers. Ratings range from 5.8 - 5.11. Some of the routes have not seen a lot of traffic and can be slightly dirty, but the rock is of good quality and should clean up with time.

Getting There Suggest change

From the parking for Bob Marley/Drive-By/Chica, walk back to the main road you came in on. Walk towards the way you drove in, passed the road that immediately goes up (Bob Marley approach), and keep walking. After about ~150ft, take the offshoot road that goes up  the hill, and has a sign saying no driving. Continue up this road to the top of the hill. Here you'll see an old oil pump near a small cliff. There is a sign for Chica Bonita labeling a trail that offshoots from the road. The approach is ~10 minutes. When taking the main path straight to the wall, the first route found is "My Way or The Highway" with "Tiger Lily" and the first few routes accessed from a small offshoot trail before reaching the main wall.

40 Total Climbs

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Location: Chica Bonita Wall Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Chica Bonita Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 392
Cheaper Than a Movie
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 316
Ridin' the Short Buzz
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 199
My Way or The Highway
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 676
Brown Eyed Girl
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 180
Motor Booty Pimp Affair
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 159
When Rats Attack
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 276
Baby Blue Eyes
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 132
That's What She Said
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 139
Old English
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 115
Hot Drama Teacher
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 42
She Might Be a Liar
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 54
Bessie
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 128
The Dude Abides
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 70
Fresh off the Bone
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 107
[Redacted]
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Cheaper Than a Movie
 392
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Ridin' the Short Buzz
 316
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
My Way or The Highway
 199
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Brown Eyed Girl
 676
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Motor Booty Pimp Affair
 180
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
When Rats Attack
 159
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Baby Blue Eyes
 276
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
That's What She Said
 132
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Old English
 139
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Hot Drama Teacher
 115
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
She Might Be a Liar
 42
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Bessie
 54
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
The Dude Abides
 128
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Fresh off the Bone
 70
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
[Redacted]
 107
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Chica Bonita Wall »

Sun & Shade Suggest change

Details: This crag has just enough overhang cover to stay mostly dry during a downpour.

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