Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Soctt Curran
Page Views: 507 total · 7/month
Shared By: Alex Mitchell on May 2, 2013
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


28 Opinions

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Description

Move up ledgy rock for the first few bolts to reach the huge flake feature. Lay-back the very overhung flake feature on huge jugs to the chains.

Protection

8 Bolts

Location

This route is located to the far right of the main Chica area right before you drop down into the wrap around amphitheater. It is hard to miss the large flake feature that this climb follows.

Photos

Alex Mitchell
Phoenix, AZ
  5.10c
Alex Mitchell   Phoenix, AZ
  5.10c
Updated with location. Feb 26, 2014
Alex Fox
New York, NY
  5.10b
Alex Fox   New York, NY
  5.10b
This route is much easier if you skip the beginning boulder problem by walking around to the top of the ledge. Not that you should, but if you're having trouble with the start, the rest of the climb is about 10a and well-worth doing. Jun 29, 2016
Ben Juneau
  5.10c
Ben Juneau  
  5.10c
Id recommend stick clipping the first bolt (and not skipping it by walking around). The moves to this bolt are the most technical and strenuous of the route, and the handholds involved the most beautiful and interesting. After that, enjoy multiple no hands rests before punching it on the arete to the anchors. I'd recommend using a couple long draws to reduce drag. We found that long draws on the 2nd and 4th bolts helped quite a bit. 3rd bolt would work as well, but would make a ledge fall more likely. Mar 17, 2018