Type: Sport, 35 ft, Grade V
FA: Jared Hancock, Karla Hancock, Mark Ryan, Jenny Ryan
Page Views: 1,589 total · 18/month
Shared By: Ben Rollin on Oct 18, 2011
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


125 Opinions

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Description

This route is the best warm up around. Start on smaller holds and reach to better jugs as you go up. Interesting movements, and the holds only get larger as you climb. Well protected.

Location

About 15 feet right of Hot Drama Teacher, on face around the corner from The Dude Abides.

Protection

4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor (left anchor bolt is new glue-in as of late 2015).

Photos

S. Neoh  
As of Oct 2012, the left anchor bolt and hanger move down by a 1/4" under load. The single steel rap ring is attached directly to this hanger. There is a backup chain from the upper hanger to this rap ring. I added a biner to a link in the chain to provide redundancy. The added biner should take more of the load if the rope is threaded through BOTH the rap ring and the added biner.
I have also reported the bad anchor bolt at redriverclimbing.com Oct 21, 2012
Mat D.
Laramie, WY
Mat D.   Laramie, WY
I just climbed this route a few days ago. When I weighted my rope to rappel down after cleaning, I definitely noticed that left anchor bolt move, like S. Neoh mentioned. It hasn't fallen out yet, but neither has it been replaced. The other anchor bolt is still solid though. Mar 24, 2015
Lois Claracq
Dublin, Ohio
Lois Claracq   Dublin, Ohio
The left bolt has been cut and a new anchor bolt has been glued above the original one. Oct 2, 2015