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Routes in Chica Bonita Wall

Baby Blue Eyes S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Be My Yoko Ono T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Bessie S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Brolo El Cunado S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Brown Eyed Girl S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cheaper Than a Movie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cold Hard Bitch S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Colt 45 S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dude Abides, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flying The Bird S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fresh off the Bone S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Good Gravy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hellava Caucasian S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hot Drama Teacher S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
I'll Take Sue S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
King Cobra S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Laying Pipe under the Bridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lets get drunk and think about it T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mary Pop-Parazzi S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Old English S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pocahontas Path S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Raindancer S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ridin' the Short Buzz S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rinse and Repeat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
She Might be a Liar S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Size Doesn't Matter S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spice of Life, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
That's What She Said S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
When Rats Attack S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
You Take Sally S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 35 ft, Grade V
FA: Jared Hancock, Karla Hancock, Mark Ryan, Jenny Ryan
Page Views: 1,291 total · 17/month
Shared By: Ben Rollin on Oct 18, 2011
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

This route is the best warm up around. Start on smaller holds and reach to better jugs as you go up. Interesting movements, and the holds only get larger as you climb. Well protected.

Location

About 15 feet right of Hot Drama Teacher, on face around the corner from The Dude Abides.

Protection

4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor (left anchor bolt is new glue-in as of late 2015).

Photos

Lois Claracq
Dublin, Ohio
Lois Claracq   Dublin, Ohio
The left bolt has been cut and a new anchor bolt has been glued above the original one. Oct 2, 2015
Mat D.
Laramie, WY
Mat D.   Laramie, WY
I just climbed this route a few days ago. When I weighted my rope to rappel down after cleaning, I definitely noticed that left anchor bolt move, like S. Neoh mentioned. It hasn't fallen out yet, but neither has it been replaced. The other anchor bolt is still solid though. Mar 24, 2015
S. Neoh  
As of Oct 2012, the left anchor bolt and hanger move down by a 1/4" under load. The single steel rap ring is attached directly to this hanger. There is a backup chain from the upper hanger to this rap ring. I added a biner to a link in the chain to provide redundancy. The added biner should take more of the load if the rope is threaded through BOTH the rap ring and the added biner.
I have also reported the bad anchor bolt at redriverclimbing.com Oct 21, 2012

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