Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Matt Tackett, Jason Haas - 2005
Page Views: 9,340 total · 69/month
Shared By: e Dixon on Nov 19, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


187 Opinions

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Description

The route ascends a long, right-facing dihedral towards the center of the wall. Climb up through a section of broken cracks to gain a cleaner, tight-hands crack in a corner. Follow the corner as it continues up and starts to arch to the right. When the corner ends, make a few moves on the slabby face to the two bolt anchor just below the top of the cliff.

  • The guidebook says that a single 60m rope is enough to lower off this route. It will be really close! It might be wise to use a 70m just to be safe.

Location

Route ascends the obvious right-facing dihedral towards the center of the cliff.

Protection

(2) sets of Camalots from #.4 - #75, (1) #1 - #4, a couple small - medium nuts could also be used.
Bryan Hall
Portland, Oregon
 
Bryan Hall   Portland, Oregon
 
Fantastic route. Eats gear wherever you might want it and gives you a hard 11c TR on Bessie when you are done. I carried doubles of #3 instead of a #4 and had no problems with gear on this.

60 meter rope does get you down, it's close though! Nov 8, 2011
Marlin Thorman
Spokane, WA
  5.8
Marlin Thorman   Spokane, WA
  5.8
One of the best trad routes I have climbed in the Red! Super stellar, long, and great gear placements. Never used my BD #4. Apr 23, 2012
Such a good line. The layback section will eat .75 cams, it's nice to take a couple along. Jul 11, 2012
Lou C
  5.8+
Lou C  
  5.8+
60m rope got me down with stretch. Jan 9, 2013
BrandonC
Cincinnati, OH
BrandonC   Cincinnati, OH
Led this route two times. Both times, it was with a different rope and both were unchopped 60m. It literally uses every foot, but a 60 will get you down without issue from my experience. if you are okeydokey with runouts on easy terrain(5.5/6 slab?) , you can skip the 4. But, the top guarding the chains is often wet if it has rained at all recently. It doesn't make it much more difficult when wet, but it is a bit unsettling. Feb 28, 2015
artem Vasilyev
New York, NY
artem Vasilyev   New York, NY
Easy route, fun section at the bottom! Stopped placing gear halfway up and just ran it out the remainder of the way on the 5.4/5.5 slab. Gives you a fun sense of adventure.

Don't waste your time bringing a #4, if you want to lessen the runout plug a nut or a hand/fist sized cam before moving out right and up.


Awesome route, 60m got me down fine (being lowered and rappelling both)

5.7 would be a more appropriate grade, but depending on your crack technique it could end up feeling harder. Sep 9, 2015
highneed  
 
Perhaps the best single pitch 5.9 and under trad route in the sandstone belt. If you don't sew up the last 60 feet you can just lower off. If you gear all the way to the top of the wall and traverse to the anchors (i.e. what the partner did) you will find yourself in a mini-epic lowering off with a 60. Sep 7, 2016
Louis Weiher
Milwaukee, WI
  5.8
Louis Weiher   Milwaukee, WI
  5.8
Super fun route - interesting and varied climbing.

IMO, the movement is 5.8 only through the small roof and layback crack, then mellows into easy 5.5-5.6 slab.

I placed a #1 Camalot after the roof and a single .75 midway through, then ran it out about 15 feet to a bomber #4 (could have thrown a #3 there). After that, just a few smaller pieces are fine to protect the easy top section. Overall I placed 9 total pieces. I could have went with 8 and kinda wish I had, because even with extending every piece, I still had some serious rope drag at the top. Oct 17, 2016
When we did this the first blocky section had a snake in it slowly chasing a mouse up the crack. It made for lots of entertainment! May 25, 2018
Ted Pinson
Chicago, IL
  5.8+
Ted Pinson   Chicago, IL
  5.8+
Amazing climb...totally lived up to the hype even in 90 degree heat and wet conditions (most of the route, thankfully, stays dry). The bottom part was a bit trickier than I expected and pulling the roof onto the slab was very committing. Felt more like 8+ with the pump factor of the layback, but might be easier if you have smaller hands and can get some good jams in the .75-1 section. I didn’t feel the need for a #4...you can get a bomber #3 in the same section if you go a bit higher/deeper into the crack. Sep 3, 2018