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Routes in Chica Bonita Wall

Baby Blue Eyes S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Be My Yoko Ono T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Bessie S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Brolo El Cunado S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Brown Eyed Girl S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cheaper Than a Movie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cold Hard Bitch S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cold Hard Bitch S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Colt 45 S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dude Abides, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flying The Bird S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fresh off the Bone S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Good Gravy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hellava Caucasian S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hot Drama Teacher S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
I'll Take Sue S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
King Cobra S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Laying Pipe under the Bridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lets get drunk and think about it T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mary Pop-Parazzi S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Old English S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pocahontas Path S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Raindancer S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ridin' the Short Buzz S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rinse and Repeat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
She Might be a Liar S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Size Doesn't Matter S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spice of Life, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
That's What She Said S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tiger Lily S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tight Lipped 2 S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
When Rats Attack S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
You Take Sally S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 65 ft, Grade V
FA: Don McGlone, John Aragon
Page Views: 1,468 total · 17/month
Shared By: Ben Rollin on Oct 18, 2011
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

This route involves a bouldery start through sloping edges that will bring the pump early. Stickclip highly recommended. After a series of spicy clipping stances you reach a ledge for a break. Notice the fossilized bamboo stick on the rock next to you! Take a break before climbing sustained slopy edges and pockets all the way to the top. Crux moves occur at bolt 5, and don't expect a break at the end!

The Dude Abides will surprise those dependent upon the 3rd edition RRG guidebook - the rating of 5.11a is usually discredited. To those who believe in the 5.11a rating, "obviously, you're not a golfer."

Location

Upon approaching Chica Bonita Wall, it is after the 3 short sport routes. It is the first tall sport climb up a slightly overhung face to the right of a corner.

Protection

7 bolts with 2 bolted anchors.

Photos

polloloco
Boston
polloloco   Boston
Careful with this route. There are some spinners on it according to my buddy that climbed it (6/22). He also said it's not an 11a and should be rated higher. Take heed... Jun 26, 2014
Paul Park
  5.11c
Paul Park  
  5.11c
Definitely a sandbag at 11a in the guidebook. The bottom section is pumpy and tough to start if you're on the smaller side. Lots of deceiving chalked up slopers. Upper section is easier with good side pull pockets at around 5.10b/c Sep 8, 2015

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