Type: Sport, 65 ft, Grade V
FA: Don McGlone, John Aragon
Page Views: 1,530 total · 18/month
Shared By: Ben Rollin on Oct 18, 2011
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


46 Opinions

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Description

This route involves a bouldery start through sloping edges that will bring the pump early. Stickclip highly recommended. After a series of spicy clipping stances you reach a ledge for a break. Notice the fossilized bamboo stick on the rock next to you! Take a break before climbing sustained slopy edges and pockets all the way to the top. Crux moves occur at bolt 5, and don't expect a break at the end!

The Dude Abides will surprise those dependent upon the 3rd edition RRG guidebook - the rating of 5.11a is usually discredited. To those who believe in the 5.11a rating, "obviously, you're not a golfer."

Location

Upon approaching Chica Bonita Wall, it is after the 3 short sport routes. It is the first tall sport climb up a slightly overhung face to the right of a corner.

Protection

7 bolts with 2 bolted anchors.

Photos

polloloco
Boston
polloloco   Boston
Careful with this route. There are some spinners on it according to my buddy that climbed it (6/22). He also said it's not an 11a and should be rated higher. Take heed... Jun 26, 2014
Paul Park
San Jose CA
  5.11c
Paul Park   San Jose CA
  5.11c
Definitely a sandbag at 11a in the guidebook. The bottom section is pumpy and tough to start if you're on the smaller side. Lots of deceiving chalked up slopers. Upper section is easier with good side pull pockets at around 5.10b/c Sep 8, 2015