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Routes in Chica Bonita Wall

Baby Blue Eyes S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Be My Yoko Ono T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Bessie S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Brolo El Cunado S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Brown Eyed Girl S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cheaper Than a Movie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cold Hard Bitch S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Colt 45 S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dude Abides, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flying The Bird S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fresh off the Bone S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Good Gravy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hellava Caucasian S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hot Drama Teacher S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
I'll Take Sue S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
King Cobra S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Laying Pipe under the Bridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lets get drunk and think about it T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mary Pop-Parazzi S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Old English S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pocahontas Path S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Raindancer S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ridin' the Short Buzz S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rinse and Repeat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
She Might be a Liar S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Size Doesn't Matter S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spice of Life, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
That's What She Said S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
When Rats Attack S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
You Take Sally S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: Dan Beck, Matt Tacket, 2008
Page Views: 554 total, 13/month
Shared By: Thomas Carson on Apr 20, 2014
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

Climb the hand crack in the corner to the right of the pipe. The first 25 feet are a nice crack with no face holds. From here I went through the arch and finished by sitting on top of the arch, but I may have used the pipe to ascend part of that section.

My belayer belayed from the ledge with the tree at the base of the crack. I think it's safer that way.

The guide book says 70ft, but its 35ft tops.

The climbing isn't bad, but it's short. The little bit of added adventure/ not straight forward cragging made it more fun for me.

Location

When you're about to the main wall, take the small trail that veers left. It goes up the hill, down the other side of the wall, and through a little bit of vegetation.

Protection

what I used (from what I remember):

#.5 to #1 BD cams. I think a double of the #1. 1 nut behind the arch.

Photos

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