PRINT: Rock Climbing in 2 Bridge Buttress, The New River Gorge Region

2 Bridge Buttress

W Virginia > New River Gorge… > New River Gorge… > Bridge Area

Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS. Details

All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.

Description

Sunny, Easily accessible, high usage area (especially by newer folks and guides)

Recently many of the climbs have had anchors placed on the top of them, hopefully this will preserve the trees that have managed to survive the past 20 years of abuse.

First Area developed during the early 80s, location of the first lead (Zag 5.8), the first 5.10 (The Tree Route), first 5.11 (Englishman's Crack), and first 5.12 (Let the Wind Blow)

Getting There

Heading north from Fayetteville take three rights after going over bridge, cliff is to your north once you pass under bridge

Routes from Left to Right

5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a 1 ● Kerry Allen Memorial Trad, TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R 83 ● Monkey See, Monkey Do Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 67 ● Butterbeans Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 13 ● Let's Get Physical Trad
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c 1 ● Locked on Target Sport, TR
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 22 ● Underfling Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 158 ● Chockstone Trad, TR
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R 24 ● Dresden Corner Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 10 ● A Touch of Tango Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 74 ● Marionette Trad, TR
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 1 ● Marionetta Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 1 ● Sock Puppet Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 143 ● The Tree Route Trad, TR
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 2 ● Preferred Dynamics Trad
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R 1 ● Spine Tingling Bliss Trad
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R 3 ● Are You An Idiot? Trad
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b 3 ● Are You Experienced? Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 246 ● Jaws Trad, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 11 ● Raptured Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 26 ● Stretch Armstrong Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 49 ● Team Machine Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 8 ● International Incident Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 363 ● Easily Flakey Trad, TR
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 47 ● Englishman's Crack Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 1 ● Bridge At Bardo Trad
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b 1 ● Gag Reflex Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 92 ● Handsome and Well-Hung Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 312 ● Zag Trad, TR
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R 1 ● Pearly Gates Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R 139 ● Angel's Arete Trad, TR
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 2 ● Mega Magic Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 2 ● Penalty Situation Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 9 ● Blunder and Frightening Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 132 ● The Layback Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 1 ● The Way Back Trad
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b 3 ● Pirouette Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 26 ● The Strategem Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 17 ● The Mayfly Trad
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b 1 ● Love Shack Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c 2 ● Whammy Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 64 ● Labor Day Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 1 ● Coal Miners Daughter Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b 123 ● High Times Trad
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a 53 ● Let the Wind Blow Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b 1 ● Love Jugs Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 112 ● Horton's Tree Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 23 ● Mean Old Mr. Gravity Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 12 ● Dog Fight Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 10 ● Macho Man Trad

● Kerry Allen Memorial

5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR

● Monkey See, Monkey Do

5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R Trad, TR

● Butterbeans

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad

● Let's Get Physical

5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad

● Locked on Target

5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport, TR

● Underfling

5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad

● Chockstone

158

5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, TR

● Dresden Corner

5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R Trad

● A Touch of Tango

5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad

● Marionette

5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, TR

● Marionetta

5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad

● Sock Puppet

5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad

● The Tree Route

143

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR

● Preferred Dynamics

5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad

● Spine Tingling Bliss

5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R Trad

● Are You An Idiot?

5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R Trad

● Are You Experienced?

5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad

● Jaws

246

5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, TR

● Raptured

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad

● Stretch Armstrong

5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport

● Team Machine

5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport

● International Incident

5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 Trad

● Easily Flakey

363

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR

● Englishman's Crack

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad

● Bridge At Bardo

5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad

● Gag Reflex

5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Trad

● Handsome and Well-Hung

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad

● Zag

312

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR

● Pearly Gates

5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R Trad, TR

● Angel's Arete

139

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Trad, TR

● Mega Magic

5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport

● Penalty Situation

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad, TR

● Blunder and Frightening

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR

● The Layback

132

5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad

● The Way Back

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad

● Pirouette

5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport

● The Strategem

5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport

● The Mayfly

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad

● Love Shack

5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport

● Whammy

5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport

● Labor Day

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad

● Coal Miners Daughter

5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport

● High Times

123

5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad

● Let the Wind Blow

5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport

● Love Jugs

5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport

● Horton's Tree

112

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad

● Mean Old Mr. Gravity

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport

● Dog Fight

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad

● Macho Man

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Bridge Buttress 11/2024

Save the cliff, get on the sharp end

One of the huge roofs found along the Bridge Buttress. Easily Flakey, Zag and Angels Arete are visable

Bridge Buttress from the parking lot.

Bridge Area from across the river