Elevation: 179 ft
GPS: 42.441, -71.077 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 14,357 total · 76/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jan 13, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Joe M, Old Timer, jim.dangle
Access Issue: COVID-19 Guidelines Details

Description

Description: This rock is listed as being up to 80 feet tall in Boston Rocks. Hmmm. It faces east. There are two fixed anchors at the southern most part of the crag. Ice forms near and in this gully during cold stretches.

The GPS location is not accurate, but it is better than it used to be. Anyone with more accurate coordinate, let me know.

L->R:

A Face

various bouldering problems to V5.

A. Lichen It, 8 PG-13, 1p, 65', gear or TR.

ice, M2.

B Face

B1. Endgame, 7, 1p, 40', gear or TR.

B2. Easy Off, 4.

CB1. Unnamed 5.9, 9, 1p, gear or TR.

C Face

D. Easy Corner, 3, 1p, 35', gear or TR.

E. Quick Step, 8, 1p, 35', gear or TR.

F. Hair Line, 6, 1p, 30', TR or gear.

D Face

G. Twist and Crawl Wall, 7, 1p, 80, TR or gear.

E Face.

H. unknown, 8.

I. Long Lead, 6.

J. Arete, 4-5 PG-13, 1p, 60', TR or gear.

K. Unknown, 10+.

F Face

Getting There

From the end of Goodyear Ave in Melrose, follow Cascade Trail north a few hundred feet (in yellow) towards the Cascade. Just before you hit the Cascade itself, turn left to follow the cascade trail up a steep, rocky staircase. At the top, take a left at the junction with the white trail. Follow it south for a minute or two and you'll find yourself on a rocky, east-facing outcropping with a few of Melrose. The bolts are just south of this viewpoint (see photos). To head to the base of the crag, continue south on the white trail until just after the peak. Turn left and downhill off of the white trail and you'll find a short bouldering wall. Continue heading downhill (east) and you'll find a rough trail on your left (heading north) to the base of the climbs.

From the parking area on Fellsway E, walk a hundred feet south to find the sign and eastern-facing entrance to the cross-fells trail. Head a few hundred feet in before taking the first left on the black rock trails path (a wider trail), marked in white. Take the first right and then the first left. After a few hundred feet you'll find yourself on the rocky outcropping with the view of Melrose described above. 

GPS Location

Per Nathan Silberman: the GPS location is:42.44416, -71.07615. You can also reference it here: https://goo.gl/maps/2qY8QLfhwqwb6Xz16.. Alternatively, you can find it via Google Maps by searching for Eagle Rock, Melrose, MA".

42.44416° N, 71.07615° W

8 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Crag 6 aka Black Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 36
Endgame
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Endgame
 36
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
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