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Crag 6 aka Black Rock Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Crag 6 aka Black Rock

L › R R › L A › Z

	Arete T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
	Do Not Trip on That Piton T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Easy Corner T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
	Endgame T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Hair Line T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Lichen It T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Quick Step T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Twist and Crawl T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Unnamed 5.9 T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

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Elevation:	223 ft	68 m
GPS:	42.44415, -71.07616 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	16,287 total · 75/month
Shared By:	Leo Paik on Jan 13, 2007 · Updates
Admins:	Old Timer, jim.dangle, Joe M Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Description: This rock is listed as being up to 80 feet tall in Boston Rocks. Hmmm. It faces east. There are two fixed anchors at the southern most part of the crag. Ice forms near and in this gully during cold stretches.

The GPS location is not accurate, but it is better than it used to be. With the more accurate coordinates in the comments, I moved the GPS pin a bit. This submission predated the satellite map feature by a long bit.

L->R:

A Face

various bouldering problems to V5.

A. Lichen It, 8 PG-13, 1p, 65', gear or TR.

ice, M2.

B Face

B1. Endgame, 7, 1p, 40', gear or TR.

B2. Easy Off, 4.

CB1. Unnamed 5.9, 9, 1p, gear or TR.

C Face

D. Easy Corner, 3, 1p, 35', gear or TR.

E. Quick Step, 8, 1p, 35', gear or TR.

F. Hair Line, 6, 1p, 30', TR or gear.

D Face

G. Twist and Crawl Wall, 7, 1p, 80, TR or gear.

E Face.

H. unknown, 8.

I. Long Lead, 6.

J. Arete, 4-5 PG-13, 1p, 60', TR or gear.

K. Unknown, 10+.

F Face

Getting There

From the end of Goodyear Ave in Melrose, follow Cascade Trail north a few hundred feet (in yellow) towards the Cascade. Just before you hit the Cascade itself, turn left to follow the cascade trail up a steep, rocky staircase. At the top, take a left at the junction with the white trail. Follow it south for a minute or two and you'll find yourself on a rocky, east-facing outcropping with a view of Melrose. The bolts are just south of this viewpoint (see photos). To head to the base of the crag, continue south on the white trail until just after the peak. Turn left and downhill off of the white trail and you'll find a short bouldering wall. Continue heading downhill (east) and you'll find a rough trail on your left (heading north) to the base of the climbs.

From the parking area on Fellsway E, walk a hundred feet south to find the sign and eastern-facing entrance to the cross-fells trail. Head a few hundred feet in before taking the first left on the black rock trails path (a wider trail), marked in white. Take the first right and then the first left. After a few hundred feet you'll find yourself on the rocky outcropping with the view of Melrose described above.

GPS Location

42.44416, -71.07615

9 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Crag 6 aka Black Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c 4 ● Do Not Trip on That Piton Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 48 ● Endgame Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 10 ● Quick Step Trad, TR