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Lichen It
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British PG13
Avg: 1.6 from 7
votes
Routes in Crag 6 aka Black Rock
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Arete T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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Do Not Trip on That Piton T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Easy Corner T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Endgame T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Hair Line T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Lichen It T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Quick Step T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Twist and Crawl T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unnamed 5.9 T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
| Type: | Trad, TR, 65 ft (20 m) |
| FA: | 1970s? 6/19/21? |
| Page Views: | 704 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Pete Grande on Jun 21, 2021 · Updates |
| Admins: | Old Timer, jim.dangle, Joe M |
Description
Lichen It has good movement from right to left and thin face moves at the start. The cliff is broken up in 3 tiers with the hardest moves at the lower half.
Look for a cleaned face of 6 to 8 feet across. The climb starts on the right on a good hold. Move up and left for 20 feet to the first ledge. Step down and right to a crack, place pro, and climb up and left for 20 feet to another ledge. From here, follow the path of least resistance to the top. Belay at the top on a gear anchor.
As of this post, I could not find any recorded mention of this route. From the looks of the lichen on the route, I can’t imagine it has been climbed in decades if at all. I do have an inquiry to a person who did some FA in this area. If I get more information, I will update this later. For now, the first recorded free ascent is by Pete Grande and Tom Beers on 6/19/21.
We gave the consensus grade of 5.8 as it fits into to grading of the other climbs in that area.
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