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Do Not Trip on That Piton
5.4 YDS 4a French 12 Ewbanks IV UIAA 10 ZA VD 3c British
Avg: 3.3 from 4
votes
Routes in Crag 6 aka Black Rock
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Arete T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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Do Not Trip on That Piton T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Easy Corner T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Endgame T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Hair Line T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Lichen It T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Quick Step T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Twist and Crawl T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unnamed 5.9 T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
| Type: | Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 248 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | L D on Nov 21, 2023 |
| Admins: | Old Timer, jim.dangle, Joe M |
Description
Start between Endgame and Unnamed 5.9, i.e. a few feet left of the Unnamed 5.9 piton located above the overhang. Climb diagonally right until you can place your feet on the 1 inch wide lip just at the edge above the overhang. With friction (or edging) foot holds on that lip and solid gear & fingers on the crack above, traverse right crossing Unnamed 5.9 (don't trip on the piton) all the way to the very end of the lip where the arete starts. Climb the entire arete with good gear on the left for the bottom part then harder-to-place gear on the right (nuts & tricams are useful) but easier climbing for the top part of the arete i.e. where merging with the end of "Easy Off" variation of Endgame, after its much higher traverse. Arrive at the 2 bolt anchor.
Location
Start between Endgame and Unnamed 5.9, i.e. a few feet left of the piton located above the overhang.
Protection
A standard rack - a #3 is useful. A nut and a tricam could also fit at mid-arete.
WARNING: toproping without directionals or cleaning while lowering/downclimbing are not advised because of the substantial swing. It is safer if the trad gear is cleaned by the follower with a belay from above. For a toprope: place a couple of directionals on rappel first that will be cleaned on the way up (not down) by the last person toproping.
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