All Locations > Massachusetts > Eastern, MA > Middlesex Fells

Black and White Rocks Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Black and White Rocks

Cascade Right 1 / 0 / 1 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4

Cascade, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 1

Crag 1 aka Pinnacle Rock 3 / 0 / 12 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13

Crag 2 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Crag 3 4 / 0 / 4 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5

Crag 4 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Crag 5 1 / 0 / 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Crag 5 Bowl 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Crag 54 0 / 0 / 1 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8

Crag 6 aka Black Rock 9 / 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9

Fat Man 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4

Little Boy 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0

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Elevation:	25 ft	8 m
GPS:	42.4396, -71.0777 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	85,193 total · 384/month
Shared By:	Leo Paik on Jan 13, 2007 · Updates
Admins:	Old Timer, jim.dangle, Joe M Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

This is another collection of 6 to 10 smaller rocks in the 2600 acre Middlesex Fells Reservation with routes up which Boston Rocks lists this as being up to 80 feet tall. These rocks lie in Melrose. This may be best to think of this as a beginner's bouldering or toprope area. Nonetheless, you won't have to wait in lines to climb here. Also, you never know what you'll find on top of a crag here. These are also briefly described at the New England Bouldering Website (scroll down). There can be bits of ice here.

Getting There

Go North on I-93 to Hwy 60 (Exit 23 as of May 2021 (old exit 32)), go East, go North on Fellsway East/Highland (bear right where it splits), go East on East Border Road. Park legally near Woodland.

Head North on a jeep trail. Bear right at the fork. Rock 1 is just East of the 1st fork. Rock 2, 3, & 4 lie up left along the 2nd fork. To get to Rocks 5 & 6, take the right branch at the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd fork, and they lie to the east of the trail. Rock 6 lies further along past Rock 5 past a 90 degree turn left in the trail and it lies North of the trail. Apparently, there is a Crag 54 that I've never seen (access is apparently ok). Crag 5 Bowl may have access issues. Check this out in advance. Apparently, there are boulders here called Fat Man, Little Boy, and a bouldering area called Cascade Right that I've never seen. Apparently, there are ice climbs called Cascade, Elvis Has Left the Building, and Cascade Right that I've never seen.

Apparently, there is a DCR map that can help. The Friends of the Fells organization may help, and has their own map ..

Trailmap

Map.

50 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Black and White Rocks

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

V1 5 4 ● Sharpie Boulder Crag 5 Bowl
V2 5+ 6 ● Slab 54 Boulder Crag 54
V2-3 5+ 6 ● Ginsu Ridge Boulder Crag 54
5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a V-easy 3 19 ● Perfection Trad, TR, Boulder Crag 3
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a 12 ● Lotsa Pockets Trad, TR Crag 1 aka Pinnacle Rock
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c 4 ● Do Not Trip on That Piton Trad, TR Crag 6 aka Black Rock
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 48 ● Endgame Trad, TR Crag 6 aka Black Rock
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 10 ● Madcap TR Crag 1 aka Pinnacle Rock
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 14 ● Easy Overhang TR Crag 1 aka Pinnacle Rock
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 10 ● Quick Step Trad, TR Crag 6 aka Black Rock
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 10 ● OHC TR Crag 1 aka Pinnacle Rock
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 12 ● So Fine TR Crag 1 aka Pinnacle Rock
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a V1 5 4 ● Finger Crack TR, Boulder Crag 5