Elevation: 25 ft
GPS: 42.44, -71.078 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 66,739 total · 374/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jan 13, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer, jim.dangle
Access Issue: COVID-19 Guidelines Details

Description

This is another collection of 6 to 10 smaller rocks in the 2600 acre Middlesex Fells Reservation with routes up which Boston Rocks lists this as being up to 80 feet tall. These rocks lie in Melrose. This may be best to think of this as a beginner's bouldering or toprope area. Nonetheless, you won't have to wait in lines to climb here. Also, you never know what you'll find on top of a crag here. These are also briefly described at the New England Bouldering Website (scroll down). There can be bits of ice here.

Getting There

Go North on I-93 to Hwy 60 (exit 32), go East, go North on Fellsway East/Highland (bear right where it splits), go East on East Border Road. Park legally near Woodland.

Head North on a jeep trail. Bear right at the fork. Rock 1 is just East of the 1st fork. Rock 2, 3, & 4 lie up left along the 2nd fork. To get to Rocks 5 & 6, take the right branch at the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd fork, and they lie to the east of the trail. Rock 6 lies further along past Rock 5 past a 90 degree turn left in the trail and it lies North of the trail. Apparently, there is a Crag 54 that I've never seen (access is apparently ok). Crag 5 Bowl may have access issues. Check this out in advance. Apparently, there are boulders here called Fat Man, Little Boy, and a bouldering area called Cascade Right that I've never seen. Apparently, there are ice climbs called Cascade, Elvis Has Left the Building, and Cascade Right that I've never seen.

Apparently, there is a MDC (617.322.2851) map that can help. The Friends of the Fells organization may help.

Trailmap

44 Total Climbs

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Location: Black and White Rocks Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Black and White Rocks

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V1 5
 3
Sharpie
Boulder
V2 5+
 4
Ginsu Ridge
Boulder
V2 5+
 4
Slab 54
Boulder
5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
 12
Perfection
Trad, TR
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 5
Lotsa Pockets
Trad, TR
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 3
Beginner's Class
TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 30
Endgame
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 6
Madcap
TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 8
Easy Overhang
TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 8
Crag 1 Slab
TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 9
O.H.C.
TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 7
So Fine
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Sharpie Crag 5 Bowl
 3
V1 5 Boulder
Ginsu Ridge Crag 54
 4
V2 5+ Boulder
Slab 54 Crag 54
 4
V2 5+ Boulder
Perfection Crag 3
 12
5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a Trad, TR
Lotsa Pockets Crag 1 aka Pinnacle Rock
 5
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad, TR
Beginner's Class Crag 1 aka Pinnacle Rock
 3
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c TR
Endgame Crag 6 aka Black Rock
 30
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Madcap Crag 1 aka Pinnacle Rock
 6
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b TR
Easy Overhang Crag 1 aka Pinnacle Rock
 8
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b TR
Crag 1 Slab Crag 1 aka Pinnacle Rock
 8
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b TR
O.H.C. Crag 1 aka Pinnacle Rock
 9
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c TR
So Fine Crag 1 aka Pinnacle Rock
 7
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR
More Classic Climbs in Black and White Rocks »

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