Elevation: 193 ft
GPS: 42.446, -71.105 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 54,479 total · 1,045/month
Shared By: Old Timer on Jan 5, 2015
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer, jim.dangle
Getting weather forecast...

Description

This is a group of boulders and short walls near Boston.

Getting There

Follow directions provided for each area.

96 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Middlesex Fells Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Middlesex Fells

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V2 5+
 5
● Meat Hook
Boulder
Wright's Park > Slanted Boulder
V2 5+
 6
● West Face Sit
Boulder
Wright's Park > Theta Boulder
V3 6A
 6
● Grains of Paradise
Boulder
Wright's Park > Theta Boulder
V3 6A
 3
● Sunset Dual Arete
Boulder
Hemlock Pool at… > Recess Boulder
V4 6B
 3
● Shredded Beef
Boulder
Wright's Park > Slanted Boulder
V4-5 6B+
 3
● Hyperion or Southeast Arete
Boulder
Wright's Park > Slanted Boulder
V4-5 6B+
 8
● Endymion
Boulder
Wright's Park > Theta Boulder
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 10
● Endgame
Trad, TR
Black & White R… > Crag 6 aka Black Rock
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 3
● Madcap
TR
Black & White R… > Crag 1 aka Pinnacle Rock
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 5
● Crag 1 Slab
TR
Black & White R… > Crag 1 aka Pinnacle Rock
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
● O.H.C.
TR
Black & White R… > Crag 1 aka Pinnacle Rock
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Meat Hook Wright's Park > Slanted Boulder
 5
V2 5+ Boulder
● West Face Sit Wright's Park > Theta Boulder
 6
V2 5+ Boulder
● Grains of Paradise Wright's Park > Theta Boulder
 6
V3 6A Boulder
● Sunset Dual Arete Hemlock Pool at… > Recess Boulder
 3
V3 6A Boulder
● Shredded Beef Wright's Park > Slanted Boulder
 3
V4 6B Boulder
● Hyperion or Southeast Arete Wright's Park > Slanted Boulder
 3
V4-5 6B+ Boulder
● Endymion Wright's Park > Theta Boulder
 8
V4-5 6B+ Boulder
● Endgame Black & White R… > Crag 6 aka Black Rock
 10
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
● Madcap Black & White R… > Crag 1 aka Pinnacle Rock
 3
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b TR
● Crag 1 Slab Black & White R… > Crag 1 aka Pinnacle Rock
 5
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b TR
● O.H.C. Black & White R… > Crag 1 aka Pinnacle Rock
 4
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c TR
More Classic Climbs in Middlesex Fells »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
 Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Add New Photo
Photo Photo (copy)
Photos

Toprope setup for Easy Overhang.
Toprope setup for Easy Overhang.
 1

5 Comments

Sort by: Oldest
Newest Oldest Best Beta
Adam Grimm
Adam Grimm  
A couple unknown climbs and the crack Perfection:
youtu.be/b0PmF0A26Y8 Sep 17, 2016
Tim McGivern
Medford, ma
Tim McGivern   Medford, ma
Thanks for the cool video Adam! It looks like those other climbs you did are in the Black and White Rocks area? Anyway, I'd love to know where they are so they can be logged. The B&W area is sometimes written off, but I know there are a bunch of cool problems around those crags.

If you're looking to climb sometime, I'm always looking to show folks around the Fells and Lynn Woods. Apr 16, 2017
Etha Williams
Somerville, MA
Etha Williams   Somerville, MA
Anyone know the rock type here? From the googling I've been able to do it seems like mostly igneous/metamorphic (see info here: ngmdb.usgs.gov/Geolex/UnitR…) but I'm having trouble finding much info. May 12, 2018
Tim McGivern
Medford, ma
Tim McGivern   Medford, ma
Etha- “Granodiorite” with a “basaltic” dike. I’ve seen it called “diorite” before, which is similar to granite. Pre-glacial volcanic igneous. May 13, 2018
Etha Williams
Somerville, MA
Etha Williams   Somerville, MA
Thank you, Tim! May 14, 2018