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Middlesex Fells Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Middlesex Fells

Black and White Rocks 11 / 0 / 23 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 30
BooJum Rock Area at Middlesex Fells 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Crystal Spring Trailhead 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Fellsway West Outcrop 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Hemlock Pool at Middlesex Fells 0 / 0 / 0 / 14 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
Quarry Road/Bellevue Pond at Middlesex Fells 0 / 0 / 1 / 17 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17
Red Cross Path Vicinity 0 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Wright's Park 0 / 0 / 0 / 21 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 21
Elevation: 193 ft
GPS: 42.446, -71.105 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 43,043 total · 936/month
Shared By: Old Timer on Jan 5, 2015
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer, jim.dangle

Description

This is a group of boulders and short walls near Boston.

Getting There

Follow directions provided for each area.

95 Total Climbs

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Location: Middlesex Fells Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Middlesex Fells

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V2 5+
 6
● West Face Sit
Boulder
Wright's Park > Theta Boulder
V3 6A
 5
● Meat Hook
Boulder
Wright's Park > Slanted Boulder
V3 6A
 6
● Grains of Paradise
Boulder
Wright's Park > Theta Boulder
V3 6A
 3
● Sunset Dual Arete
Boulder
Hemlock Pool at… > Recess Boulder
V4-5 6B+
 3
● Hyperion or Southeast Arete
Boulder
Wright's Park > Slanted Boulder
V4-5 6B+
 8
● Endymion
Boulder
Wright's Park > Theta Boulder
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 9
● Endgame
Trad, TR
Black and White… > Crag 6 aka Black Rock
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 3
● Madcap
TR
Black and White… > Crag 1 aka Pinnacle Rock
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 5
● Crag 1 Slab
TR
Black and White… > Crag 1 aka Pinnacle Rock
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
● O.H.C.
TR
Black and White… > Crag 1 aka Pinnacle Rock
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● West Face Sit Wright's Park > Theta Boulder
 6
V2 5+ Boulder
● Meat Hook Wright's Park > Slanted Boulder
 5
V3 6A Boulder
● Grains of Paradise Wright's Park > Theta Boulder
 6
V3 6A Boulder
● Sunset Dual Arete Hemlock Pool at… > Recess Boulder
 3
V3 6A Boulder
● Hyperion or Southeast Arete Wright's Park > Slanted Boulder
 3
V4-5 6B+ Boulder
● Endymion Wright's Park > Theta Boulder
 8
V4-5 6B+ Boulder
● Endgame Black and White… > Crag 6 aka Black Rock
 9
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
● Madcap Black and White… > Crag 1 aka Pinnacle Rock
 3
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b TR
● Crag 1 Slab Black and White… > Crag 1 aka Pinnacle Rock
 5
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b TR
● O.H.C. Black and White… > Crag 1 aka Pinnacle Rock
 4
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c TR
More Classic Climbs in Middlesex Fells »

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Toprope setup for Easy Overhang.
Toprope setup for Easy Overhang.
 1

5 Comments

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Adam Grimm
Adam Grimm  
A couple unknown climbs and the crack Perfection:
youtu.be/b0PmF0A26Y8 Sep 17, 2016
Tim McGivern
Medford, ma
Tim McGivern   Medford, ma
Thanks for the cool video Adam! It looks like those other climbs you did are in the Black and White Rocks area? Anyway, I'd love to know where they are so they can be logged. The B&W area is sometimes written off, but I know there are a bunch of cool problems around those crags.

If you're looking to climb sometime, I'm always looking to show folks around the Fells and Lynn Woods. Apr 16, 2017
Etha Williams
Somerville, MA
Etha Williams   Somerville, MA
Anyone know the rock type here? From the googling I've been able to do it seems like mostly igneous/metamorphic (see info here: ngmdb.usgs.gov/Geolex/UnitR…) but I'm having trouble finding much info. May 12, 2018
Tim McGivern
Medford, ma
Tim McGivern   Medford, ma
Etha- “Granodiorite” with a “basaltic” dike. I’ve seen it called “diorite” before, which is similar to granite. Pre-glacial volcanic igneous. May 13, 2018
Etha Williams
Somerville, MA
Etha Williams   Somerville, MA
Thank you, Tim! May 14, 2018

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