Elevation: 193 ft
GPS: 42.446, -71.105 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 45,367 total · 949/month
Shared By: Old Timer on Jan 5, 2015
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer, jim.dangle
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Description

This is a group of boulders and short walls near Boston.

Getting There

Follow directions provided for each area.

95 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Middlesex Fells Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Middlesex Fells

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V2 5+
 6
West Face Sit
Boulder
V3 6A
 5
Meat Hook
Boulder
V3 6A
 6
Grains of Paradise
Boulder
V3 6A
 3
Sunset Dual Arete
Boulder
V4-5 6B+
 3
Hyperion or Southeast Arete
Boulder
V4-5 6B+
 8
Endymion
Boulder
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 9
Endgame
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 3
Madcap
TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 5
Crag 1 Slab
TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
O.H.C.
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
West Face Sit Wright's Park > Theta Boulder
 6
V2 5+ Boulder
Meat Hook Wright's Park > Slanted Boulder
 5
V3 6A Boulder
Grains of Paradise Wright's Park > Theta Boulder
 6
V3 6A Boulder
Sunset Dual Arete Hemlock Pool at… > Recess Boulder
 3
V3 6A Boulder
Hyperion or Southeast Arete Wright's Park > Slanted Boulder
 3
V4-5 6B+ Boulder
Endymion Wright's Park > Theta Boulder
 8
V4-5 6B+ Boulder
Endgame Black & White R… > Crag 6 aka Black Rock
 9
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Madcap Black & White R… > Crag 1 aka Pinnacle Rock
 3
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b TR
Crag 1 Slab Black & White R… > Crag 1 aka Pinnacle Rock
 5
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b TR
O.H.C. Black & White R… > Crag 1 aka Pinnacle Rock
 4
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c TR
More Classic Climbs in Middlesex Fells »

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Photos

A couple unknown climbs and the crack Perfection:
youtu.be/b0PmF0A26Y8 Sep 17, 2016
Tim McGivern
Medford, ma
Tim McGivern   Medford, ma
Thanks for the cool video Adam! It looks like those other climbs you did are in the Black and White Rocks area? Anyway, I'd love to know where they are so they can be logged. The B&W area is sometimes written off, but I know there are a bunch of cool problems around those crags.

If you're looking to climb sometime, I'm always looking to show folks around the Fells and Lynn Woods. Apr 16, 2017
Etha Williams
Somerville, MA
Etha Williams   Somerville, MA
Anyone know the rock type here? From the googling I've been able to do it seems like mostly igneous/metamorphic (see info here: ngmdb.usgs.gov/Geolex/UnitR…) but I'm having trouble finding much info. May 12, 2018
Tim McGivern
Medford, ma
Tim McGivern   Medford, ma
Etha- “Granodiorite” with a “basaltic” dike. I’ve seen it called “diorite” before, which is similar to granite. Pre-glacial volcanic igneous. May 13, 2018
Etha Williams
Somerville, MA
Etha Williams   Somerville, MA
Thank you, Tim! May 14, 2018