Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Crag 6 aka Black Rock

Massachusetts > Eastern, MA > Middlesex Fells > Black & White Rocks

Description

Description: This rock is listed as being up to 80 feet tall in Boston Rocks. Hmmm. It faces east. There are two fixed anchors at the southern most part of the crag. Ice forms near and in this gully during cold stretches.

The GPS location is not accurate, but it is better than it used to be. With the more accurate coordinates in the comments, I moved the GPS pin a bit. This submission predated the satellite map feature by a long bit.

L->R:

A Face

various bouldering problems to V5.

A. Lichen It, 8 PG-13, 1p, 65', gear or TR.

ice, M2.

B Face

B1. Endgame, 7, 1p, 40', gear or TR.

B2. Easy Off, 4.

CB1. Unnamed 5.9, 9, 1p, gear or TR.

C Face

D. Easy Corner, 3, 1p, 35', gear or TR.

E. Quick Step, 8, 1p, 35', gear or TR.

F. Hair Line, 6, 1p, 30', TR or gear.

D Face

G. Twist and Crawl Wall, 7, 1p, 80, TR or gear.

E Face.

H. unknown, 8.

I. Long Lead, 6.

J. Arete, 4-5 PG-13, 1p, 60', TR or gear.

K. Unknown, 10+.

F Face

Getting There

From the end of Goodyear Ave in Melrose, follow Cascade Trail north a few hundred feet (in yellow) towards the Cascade. Just before you hit the Cascade itself, turn left to follow the cascade trail up a steep, rocky staircase. At the top, take a left at the junction with the white trail. Follow it south for a minute or two and you'll find yourself on a rocky, east-facing outcropping with a view of Melrose. The bolts are just south of this viewpoint (see photos). To head to the base of the crag, continue south on the white trail until just after the peak. Turn left and downhill off of the white trail and you'll find a short bouldering wall. Continue heading downhill (east) and you'll find a rough trail on your left (heading north) to the base of the climbs.

From the parking area on Fellsway E, walk a hundred feet south to find the sign and eastern-facing entrance to the cross-fells trail. Head a few hundred feet in before taking the first left on the black rock trails path (a wider trail), marked in white. Take the first right and then the first left. After a few hundred feet you'll find yourself on the rocky outcropping with the view of Melrose described above. 

GPS Location

42.44416, -71.07615

Routes from Left to Right

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 7
● Lichen It
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 46
● Endgame
Trad, TR
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 4
● Do Not Trip on That Piton
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 17
● Unnamed 5.9
Trad, TR
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 6
● Easy Corner
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 10
● Quick Step
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 8
● Hair Line
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 6
● Twist and Crawl
Trad
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
 13
● Arete
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Lichen It
 7
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad, TR
● Endgame
 46
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
● Do Not Trip on That Piton
 4
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR
● Unnamed 5.9
 17
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad, TR
● Easy Corner
 6
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad
● Quick Step
 10
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
● Hair Line
 8
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
● Twist and Crawl
 6
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
● Arete
 13
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 Trad, TR

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Trail to Crag 6 bolts. Starting at the Cascade Trail, walk south several hundred feet, following the white blazes, until you hit this spot, from which you can descend to a pair of anchors.
[Hide Photo] Trail to Crag 6 bolts. Starting at the Cascade Trail, walk south several hundred feet, following the white blazes, until you hit this spot, from which you can descend to a pair of anchors.
The base of the crag.
[Hide Photo] The base of the crag.
The crag from the base.
[Hide Photo] The crag from the base.
A view from the top of the crag.
[Hide Photo] A view from the top of the crag.
The two bolts at the top of the crag.
[Hide Photo] The two bolts at the top of the crag.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tim McGivern
Medford, ma
[Hide Comment] You can also just park at the end of Goodyear Ave in Melrose and walk in. You'll see it after about 1 minute of hiking the white blazed cascade trail. Apr 9, 2013
Steven Scherr
Boston
[Hide Comment] I recently saw two new bolts at the top of one of these faces. Aug 15, 2016
Tim McGivern
Medford, ma
[Hide Comment] Do you know which one? Aug 16, 2016
chris blatchley
woodinville, wa
[Hide Comment] Tim, I was just there this morning. It's at the top of Endgame. There are two bolts on the top of the 6 foot ledge at the top as well as an older piton on the small face. Sep 8, 2016
L D
Boston Area, MA
[Hide Comment] The first few times I was here I was confused by the GPS location.

I believe the top of this crag is at 42.44416, -71.07615 or Google Maps: maps.app.goo.gl/ugDBAMQisnp…. Jan 14, 2024