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Areas in Quartz Mountain

Atlantic 14 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17
Backside 5 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 6
Backside Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Black buttress boulder 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Gill boulder 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Grunt Chamber, The 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Headwall 7 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 10
Heelhook boulder 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Munge Lunge Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Run and jump boulder 0 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Sea of Screams 9 / 13 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 22
Snakes Head / S Wall 10 / 3 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 15
South America 2 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Stray Cats Wall 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Warm-up Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Watch Me Wall 6 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 15
Whale Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Elevation: 1,590 ft
GPS: 34.891, -99.301 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 61,024 total, 444/month
Shared By: Craig Childre on Aug 30, 2006 with updates
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Description

Also known as Baldy Peak. Winter spot sees shade only early in the morning and then sees sun almost all day long. World class granite will test your friction skills and the bold routes will test your nerve. RX climbing at it's best. The locals are a very friendly tight knit community who all seem to share a kinship with the "rock in the farmers wheatfield". So please be sure to pack out all your trash, avoid impacting any sensitive areas, and leave your hammer-n-nails or your drills at home. All the climbing is clean and the locals can do all their own bolting, but they might need help and I am not sure exactly who would clear such activity.

Getting There

From Altus, OK, drive north on 283/6 about 20 miles till you intersect with 44 where you will take a right. 4-5 miles until you will see a left turn for Quartz Mountain on 44a which you take for about 3 miles staying to the left until you cross a small creek with a wellhouse on the right (this dirt road will take you straight over to the base but is rough and can be muddy) which you pass up looking for the next paved right. The sign here has been removed due to the repave job as of Fall 2007. Taking this paved road north a mile take another right which is still clearly marked, over to the wall and park in the lot next to the picnic tables.

Guidebook

Oklahoma Select "A Climber's Guide" is available at Sharpend books. In this 2010 guide book author Tony Mayse covers the best routes at Quartz Mountain and the Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge.

CLICK HERE TO ORDER YOUR OWN COPY

Quote from Mark Herndon

"I've been to the Valley, Yosemite, but the face climbing at Quartz Mountain in Oklahoma is much better."

taken from Oklahoma Rock - written by Doug Robinson

The rock at Quartz had been a pleasant surprise, but the climbs were downright unbelievable, bold to a standard seldom seen elsewhere. They bespoke committed vision backed solidly by technique--the boys had learned a lot since the days of leather belts and moldy ropes--and seemingly unshakable mind control. Scanning the guidebook, I could see many such routes designated by an "xx" after the rating. The definition was chilling: "xx means a ground fall is very possible."

Read the full story here at the WMCC site

118 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Quartz Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V3+ 6A+
Munge Lunge
Boulder
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Snakes Head
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
The Hobbit
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Who's Got the Juice
Sport, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Atlantic Route
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Three Bolt
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bourbon Street
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Accidents Will Happen
Sport, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
S-Wall
Sport 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
El Tesoro
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Amazon Woman
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Last of the Good Guys
Trad
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stray Cats
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Moose Head
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wild Child
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Munge Lunge Munge Lunge Boulder V3+ 6A+ Boulder
Snakes Head Snakes Head / S Wall 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X Trad
The Hobbit Sea of Screams 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Who's Got the Juice Sea of Screams 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, TR
Atlantic Route Atlantic 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad
Three Bolt Atlantic 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Bourbon Street Snakes Head / S Wall 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad
Accidents Will Happen Sea of Screams 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, TR
S-Wall Snakes Head / S Wall 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Sport 2 pitches
El Tesoro Atlantic 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Amazon Woman S America 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Last of the Good Guys Headwall 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Stray Cats Stray Cats Wall 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Moose Head Snakes Head / S Wall 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R Trad
Wild Child Headwall 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
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the Baldy point marker is in the wrong spot it is actually where the Atlantic route marker is. Nov 28, 2017
Preston Pettigrew
Oklahoma City, Oklahoma
Preston Pettigrew   Oklahoma City, Oklahoma
Baldy Point Bouldering Guides are available through me! They are homemade and I have a few left! Feb 1, 2017
travis timm
Tropic, Utah
travis timm   Tropic, Utah
I love how the stats for this wall make it seem pretty chill. It's like, "Oh yeah most the routs are a moderate grade and almost half of them are bolted!" Wrong. Read the discription, this little mountain will test the nerves of even the boldest climbers. Yet, this is why we love it :). My point: If you are planning a trip to quartz, do your research first and be prepared. Oct 30, 2013

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