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Elevation: 1,553 ft
GPS: 34.89777, -99.33437
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Craig Childre on Aug 30, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Ryan Sheldon, Drew Nevius, Kevin Diaz

Description Suggest change

Specifically known as Baldy Point Climbing Area within Quartz Mountain State Park (QMSP).

Most routes at this winter spot see shade only early in the morning and then sun almost all day long. World class granite will test your friction skills and the bold routes will test your nerve. RX climbing at its best. The locals are a very friendly, tight knit community who all seem to share a kinship with the "rock in the farmer’s wheatfield".

Please be sure to pack out all your trash, avoid impacting any sensitive areas, and leave your hammer-n-nails or your drills at home. All the climbing is clean and new fixed pro requires pre-authorization from QMSP who reviews bolting applications with the WMCC’s Quartz Bolting Committee. You can email the QBC at abc.wmcc@gmail.com for information on the bolting application process.

Be warned that most lines designated as “sport” here on mountain project just mean that it is only bolt protected and there are unlikely to be any opportunities for natural gear. It does NOT guarantee the route to be a safe sport route. Here at Quartz long runouts are common.

Getting There Suggest change

From Altus, OK, drive north on 283/6 about 20 miles till you intersect with 44 where you will take a right. 4-5 miles until you will see a left turn for Quartz Mountain on 44a which you take for about 3 miles staying to the left until you cross a small creek with a wellhouse on the right (this dirt road will take you straight over to the base but is rough and can be muddy) which you pass up looking for the next paved right. The sign here has been removed due to the repave job as of Fall 2007. Taking this paved road north a mile take another right which is still clearly marked, over to the wall and park in the lot next to the picnic tables.

Guidebook

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The latest guide is Oklahoma Rock A Climber's Guide by Tony Mayse. Available at most local gyms and shops, as well as at Sharp End Books.

Quote from Mark Herndon

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"I've been to the Valley, Yosemite, but the face climbing at Quartz Mountain in Oklahoma is much better."

taken from Oklahoma Rock - written by Doug Robinson

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The rock at Quartz had been a pleasant surprise, but the climbs were downright unbelievable, bold to a standard seldom seen elsewhere. They bespoke committed vision backed solidly by technique--the boys had learned a lot since the days of leather belts and moldy ropes--and seemingly unshakable mind control. Scanning the guidebook, I could see many such routes designated by an "xx" after the rating. The definition was chilling: "xx means a ground fall is very possible."

Read the full story here at the WMCC site

Gear

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Rope: A 70m rope is really helpful at Quartz as there is a descent route from most areas that can be done with 1 (or sometimes 2) rap(s) using a single 70m, rather than one rappel using 2 ropes. A few exceptions like South America wall exist, and will require 2 ropes anyway. Always knot your rope ends and when in doubt, trail a second rope!

Rack: many of the routes have few enough protection opportunites to make use of more than a single rack, but some of the easier crack are long enough that you could make use of doubles in every size. 6-12 draws/slings for clipping bolts and extending gear placements. It’s handy to have a couple locking draws for extra reassurance on the sparsely bolted slabs. When in doubt take extra gear.

Camping

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Camping is available at Quartz Mountain Nature Park

https://www.travelok.com/listings/view.profile/id.6151

There is no overnight camping/parking at Mount Baldy, with 2 exceptions. The annual Fall Gathering (typically the first weekend of November) and the Spring Fling (typically the first weekend of April). These dates can vary.

186 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Quartz Mountain Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Quartz Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V3+ 6A+
 16
Munge Lunge
Boulder
V4-5 6B+
 6
Black Scratch
Boulder
V5 6C
 5
Quality Control
Boulder
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
 34
Snakes Head
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 7
1999
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 55
The Hobbit
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 25
Bourbon Street
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 32
S-Wall
Sport 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 25
El Tesoro
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 31
Amazon Woman
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 18
Last of the Good Guys
Trad
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 29
Stray Cat Blues
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
 16
Moose Head
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 5
L.A. Woman
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 6
Wild Child
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Munge Lunge 11. Cedar Valley > Munge Lunge Boulder
 16
V3+ 6A+ Boulder
Black Scratch 00. Entrance Bo… > Gill Boulder
 6
V4-5 6B+ Boulder
Quality Control 11. Cedar Valley > Munge Lunge Boulder
 5
V5 6C Boulder
Snakes Head 03. Snakes Head / S Wall
 34
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X Trad
1999 09. Watch Me Wall
 7
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
The Hobbit 05. Sea of Screams
 55
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Bourbon Street 04. Headwall
 25
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad
S-Wall 03. Snakes Head / S Wall
 32
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Sport 2 pitches
El Tesoro 07. Atlantic
 25
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Amazon Woman 06. S America
 31
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Last of the Good Guys 04. Headwall
 18
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Stray Cat Blues 11. Cedar Valley > Stray Cats Wall
 29
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Moose Head 03. Snakes Head / S Wall
 16
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R Trad
L.A. Woman 06. S America
 5
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Wild Child 04. Headwall
 6
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in Quartz Mountain »

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