Elevation: 1,590 ft
GPS: 34.891, -99.301 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 87,549 total · 568/month
Shared By: Craig Childre on Aug 30, 2006 with improvements by John Barritt and 1 other
Admins: Drew Nevius

Description

Also known as Baldy Peak. Winter spot sees shade only early in the morning and then sees sun almost all day long. World class granite will test your friction skills and the bold routes will test your nerve. RX climbing at it's best. The locals are a very friendly tight knit community who all seem to share a kinship with the "rock in the farmers wheatfield". So please be sure to pack out all your trash, avoid impacting any sensitive areas, and leave your hammer-n-nails or your drills at home. All the climbing is clean and the locals can do all their own bolting, but they might need help and I am not sure exactly who would clear such activity.

Getting There

From Altus, OK, drive north on 283/6 about 20 miles till you intersect with 44 where you will take a right. 4-5 miles until you will see a left turn for Quartz Mountain on 44a which you take for about 3 miles staying to the left until you cross a small creek with a wellhouse on the right (this dirt road will take you straight over to the base but is rough and can be muddy) which you pass up looking for the next paved right. The sign here has been removed due to the repave job as of Fall 2007. Taking this paved road north a mile take another right which is still clearly marked, over to the wall and park in the lot next to the picnic tables.

Guidebook

The latest guide is Oklahoma Rock A Climber's Guide by Tony Mayse. Available at most local gyms and shops, as well as at Sharp End Books.

Quote from Mark Herndon

"I've been to the Valley, Yosemite, but the face climbing at Quartz Mountain in Oklahoma is much better."

taken from Oklahoma Rock - written by Doug Robinson

The rock at Quartz had been a pleasant surprise, but the climbs were downright unbelievable, bold to a standard seldom seen elsewhere. They bespoke committed vision backed solidly by technique--the boys had learned a lot since the days of leather belts and moldy ropes--and seemingly unshakable mind control. Scanning the guidebook, I could see many such routes designated by an "xx" after the rating. The definition was chilling: "xx means a ground fall is very possible."

Read the full story here at the WMCC site

Gear

Rope: A 70m rope is really helpful at Quartz as there is a descent route from most areas that can be done with 1 (or sometimes 2) rap(s) using a single 70m, rather than one rappel using 2 ropes. A few exceptions like South America wall exist, and will require 2 ropes anyway. Always knot your rope ends and when in doubt, trail a second rope!

Rack: many of the routes have few enough protection opportunites to make use of more than a single rack, but some of the easier crack are long enough that you could make use of doubles in every size. 6-12 draws/slings for clipping bolts and extending gear placements. It’s handy to have a couple locking draws for extra reassurance on the sparsely bolted slabs. When in doubt take extra gear.

124 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Quartz Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V3+ 6A+
 12
Munge Lunge
Boulder
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
 24
Snakes Head
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 39
The Hobbit
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 33
Who's Got the Juice
Sport, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 20
Three Bolt
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 22
Bourbon Street
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 32
Accidents Will Happen
Sport, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 25
S-Wall
Sport 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 16
El Tesoro
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 27
Amazon Woman
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 17
Last of the Good Guys
Trad
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 20
Stray Cats
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 28
Super Slide
Sport, TR
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
 3
Chicago Bound
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
 13
Moose Head
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Munge Lunge Cedar Valley > Munge Lunge Boulder
 12
V3+ 6A+ Boulder
Snakes Head Snakes Head / S Wall
 24
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X Trad
The Hobbit Sea of Screams
 39
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Who's Got the Juice Sea of Screams
 33
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, TR
Three Bolt Atlantic
 20
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Bourbon Street Headwall
 22
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad
Accidents Will Happen Sea of Screams
 32
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, TR
S-Wall Snakes Head / S Wall
 25
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Sport 2 pitches
El Tesoro Atlantic
 16
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Amazon Woman S America
 27
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Last of the Good Guys Headwall
 17
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Stray Cats Cedar Valley > Stray Cats Wall
 20
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Super Slide Sea of Screams
 28
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, TR
Chicago Bound Headwall
 3
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R Sport
Moose Head Snakes Head / S Wall
 13
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R Trad
More Classic Climbs in Quartz Mountain »

Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
travis timm
Tropic, Utah
travis timm   Tropic, Utah
I love how the stats for this wall make it seem pretty chill. It's like, "Oh yeah most the routs are a moderate grade and almost half of them are bolted!" Wrong. Read the discription, this little mountain will test the nerves of even the boldest climbers. Yet, this is why we love it :). My point: If you are planning a trip to quartz, do your research first and be prepared. Oct 30, 2013
Preston Pettigrew
Oklahoma City, Oklahoma
Preston Pettigrew   Oklahoma City, Oklahoma
Baldy Point Bouldering Guides are available through me! They are homemade and I have a few left! Feb 1, 2017
the Baldy point marker is in the wrong spot it is actually where the Atlantic route marker is. Nov 28, 2017