Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Snakes Head / S Wall

Baptism T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Big Bite S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Bourbon Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Desire T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Geek Feet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
L.S.A.T S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Left Leaning Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moose Bite TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Moose Head T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Pizza Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Rowins Roof TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
S-Wall S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Snakes Head T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Snakes Head Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Today is a Good Day to Die T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Type: Sport, 220 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Bill Thomas, Duane Raleigh 1979
Page Views: 4,297 total, 32/month
Shared By: Craig Childre on Nov 16, 2006
Admins:

You & This Route


22 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is one of the best face climbs around. Climbs up the middle of the wall right and below the Snakes Head. Climbing up 60 feet of 5.6 to the first bolt, then up to the mid anchor right in the middle of the signature Ess formation. Then step out and above the Ess (crux) and up, clip another bolt and work the run out 5.8 moves to the top. You can also link both pitches into one long one.

Location

Look for the Ess formation in the middle of S-Wall. Up top, scramble up 5.5 moves to the right and over to the rap station off the head wall anchors (155'), watch for cacti on the Bourbon Street Ledge.

Protection

2 Bolts, 2 Bolt mid anchor, no anchor up top use 1.5" - 1.5" Cams or you can belay sitting on the secure horn. Might take some small cams for the upper crack, soothing to the nerves when people above shout to you, that your 40' above that last bolt.
Herndon  
The classic Quartz 5.9. Yes, it is a little run out. Perfect rock, classic slab climbing. Jan 17, 2016
Chris Walden
Soldotna, Alaska
  5.9 R
Chris Walden   Soldotna, Alaska
  5.9 R
Followed on this one, the run-out is nuts! The crux is right above the S formation but honestly didn't find it that hard. Apr 24, 2015
Craig Childre
Lubbock, Texas
 
Craig Childre   Lubbock, Texas
 
S-Wall is IMHO, one of the signature routes at Quartz. It embodies all the best qualities climbing here represents. The lower run out seems wild, but the climbing is 5.3-5.5ish, and shouldn't be an issue. The business of the climb is well protected and a stout 5.9. If you can complete the crux, the run out moves above it should be easy. RX is best left too the likes of Big Bite... which has 40' run out to 5.10 friction moves. A true Quartz Classic. Sep 25, 2013
cbtacy
  5.9 R
cbtacy  
  5.9 R
One of the all-time greatest slab routes. Realistically this should be R/X not R as in theory you could be quite badly hurt were you to screw up clipping the first bolt. Incredibly fun. Best to do when the route isn't in the sun of course as this is straight-up friction climbing. Aug 11, 2013
Neal Douglass
Lubbock, TX
Neal Douglass   Lubbock, TX
I'm not sure how a 200' climb with 3 points of protection equal a sport route. Just because its bolted does not mean its sport. That's a hell of a run-out not a traditional sport route... but it is a traditional route. Apr 14, 2013