Type: Sport, 220 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Bill Thomas, Duane Raleigh 1979
Page Views: 5,801 total · 35/month
Shared By: Craig Childre on Nov 16, 2006
Admins: Drew Nevius, Kevin Diaz

You & This Route


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Description

This is one of the best face climbs around. Climbs up the middle of the wall right and below the Snakes Head. Climbing up 60 feet of 5.6 to the first bolt, then up to the mid anchor right in the middle of the signature Ess formation. Then step out and above the Ess (crux) and up, clip another bolt and work the run out 5.8 moves to the top. You can also link both pitches into one long one.

Location

Look for the Ess formation in the middle of S-Wall. Up top, scramble up 5.5 moves to the right and over to the rap station off the head wall anchors (155'), watch for cacti on the Bourbon Street Ledge.

Protection

2 Bolts, 2 Bolt mid anchor, no anchor up top use 1.5" - 1.5" Cams (0.5, 0.75, 1 Camalot will work) or you can belay sitting on the secure horn. Might take some small cams for the upper crack, soothing to the nerves when people above shout to you, that your 40' above that last bolt.

Photos