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Routes in Snakes Head / S Wall

Baptism T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Big Bite S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Bourbon Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Desire T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Geek Feet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
L.S.A.T S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Left Leaning Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moose Bite TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Moose Head T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Pizza Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Rowins Roof TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
S-Wall S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Snakes Head T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Snakes Head Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Today is a Good Day to Die T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
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Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Greg Schooley 1978
Page Views: 1,708 total · 12/month
Shared By: Craig Childre on Nov 21, 2006

You & This Route

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The first bolted route at Quartz. You might rope up for the climb to the ledge being 5.6/7. Start at the two-bolt belay and then work up past a couple of bolts and into a stance below a crack. Then climb up past the chimney and to another bolt to easy climbing above.


Start from the grassy ledge 20 feet off the deck on the right side of the wall.


Long slings for the bolts, the crack will take some small stuff if you really want it. Stuff a big 3-4's cam in the belay stance in the dish. Standard rack will suffice for the rest.


Jordan Ramey
Calgary, Alberta
Jordan Ramey   Calgary, Alberta
Crux is getting off the ledge. the move straight up from the anchor is very boulder problem-ish. I've seen many people get stuck on it. One move and your on the street though. Jan 31, 2007
C Archibolt
Salt Lake City, UT
5.8+ R
C Archibolt   Salt Lake City, UT
5.8+ R
The start of this route is certainly not 5.8 anymore. From what I've been told, the soil on the ledge has eroded, making it much more difficult to reach the jugs. I started the route about 5 - 10 feet right of the anchors, and then had to make a scary unprotected traverse into the first bolt risking a big factor 2 onto the anchor. The party in front of us (with climbers that normally onsight 5.10 trad climbs) had to put a sling on the anchor and step in it just to get off the ground.

I'm fine calling it 5.8 just to look tough and respect history, but in all honesty, the start is 5.10 R.

Oh yeah ... Pitch 2 has one gear placement and no bolts. The climbing is easier, but it's still R rated. Nov 20, 2015
Craig Childre
Lubbock, Texas
Craig Childre   Lubbock, Texas
Arch... I'll tell ya, I kind of agree. Not sure about the erosion, but I do know last time I was on it, I used your start right traverse left to the 1st bolt. Before you ask to up this rating to a 10, might I suggest you put in a TR lap of something classic like Amazon Woman at 10a/b. Still that direct start might check in around the 10's, I didn't fool with it enough to say for sure. Nov 30, 2015
C Archibolt
Salt Lake City, UT
5.8+ R
C Archibolt   Salt Lake City, UT
5.8+ R
I've TRed Amazon Woman. Haven't let it yet. I think the start of Bourbon is harder than any move on Amazon! I've led El Tesoro and the start of Bourbon is definitely harder than any move on that route! Nov 30, 2015
Craig Childre
Lubbock, Texas
Craig Childre   Lubbock, Texas
So your comfortable at the grade in the area. Nice. I could be wrong, as I theorize, that traverse up to the 1st bolt could be how the route went up to start with. Further, key holds on the direct start could have been broken? Ultimately, I don't think this warrants an upgrade. Perhaps an alternate start rating, somewhat like what some consider looking at Crusin' for a Brusin. Good discussion! Dec 7, 2015
Bernie WIre
Los Angeles
Bernie WIre   Los Angeles
This route was put up by Greg Schooley and Bernie Wire 1978. Jan 15, 2016
As noted, the dirt ledge at the beginning of the route has eroded away over the years, making it MUCH harder. The rest of the route is a romp. You can finish the route up the chimney, or climb the face on its right, which is easier than it looks, but has only one spot to put in pro and is exposed. The face option is 5.8 or so, but R rated for sure. Jan 17, 2016
Wow, did know this site existed. Bernie is right, I did the first ascent of Bourbon Street in 1978. I did a roped solo. Was Just trying out this technique and choose this line. Feb 17, 2016
true psychonaut
the abyss (kansas)
true psychonaut   the abyss (kansas)
So Greg, are you saying you don't remember if you used the side entrance or the brown glassey nobs on the first ascent? I tried this route in September on a 80 degree day at around 5pm, and I could not beast it over those suckers. I almost stood on the anchors but everything in side said no, I will do it as Greg did it, just kidding. But seriously I did walk away, not wanting to give a new belayer too big of a scare. Later at camp somebody said it was easy and you just "hop right up it" but they said that was a few years ago, so the eroding thing makes sense. The only 5.8 I couldn't climb, and first ego crusher. Apr 26, 2016
Bernie WIre
Los Angeles
Bernie WIre   Los Angeles
Greg I remember having you on belay Bourbon Street? Remember the second pitch when I went up that large flaring crack with no place protection and traversed into to far and got stuck... It was a day I'll never forget! Good times! Dec 1, 2016
Craig Childre
Lubbock, Texas
Craig Childre   Lubbock, Texas
Nice... I lead that 2nd pitch on my first pass, and thought I was gonna lose a shoe at a few spots. Terrible gear too. Dec 9, 2016
Ryan Ray
Weatherford, TX
  5.8 PG13
Ryan Ray   Weatherford, TX
  5.8 PG13
If you traverse in from about 10 ft right of the bolts then there is nothing harder than 5.8 on this route. The whole thing is easily linked as one pitch if you sling the bolts long! If you place a cam at the start of the crack, Sling it long and flip your rope over the top to cut down drag. Then don’t get in the chimney. Just walk up the ramp beside it which is prob 5.6! As Herndon mentioned you can take the face out right of the chimney. There is a great slot for gear before pulling the 5.8 face moves. Great exposure. Fun intro to runout climbing!

Great to read comments from the FA! Very cool to see! Oct 26, 2017

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