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Routes in Headwall

Angry Youth S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Anorexia T A3
Chicago Bound S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Dick Bump T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Hook Roof T A3
Last of the Good Guys T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Master Race T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Master Roof S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Watch me Im wasted T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Wild Child T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad
FA: Duane Raleigh and Bill Thomas 1986
Page Views: 1,771 total, 14/month
Shared By: Andrew Tower on Jul 4, 2007
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Description

Just to the right of Angry Youth (same start as anorexia) climbs up to the arete to access the only bolt and pull through the crux and head to the top via the arete. two bolt anchor

Protection

gear and a quickdraw. two bolt anchor.

Photos

When this route was first put up there was a good hold (10d) at the crux move just below the bolt. That hold has long since dissapeared. Now there are small, sharp edges where the good hold once was giving the route it's rating of 11d. Hard move at the bolt pulling onto the arete, then easier but run out climbing up the arete to a two-bolt anchor.The position of this climb is awesome.
  • Note of caution* There are fragile flakes that are used when trying to get established onto the arete. Please don't pull on these like "no tomorrow", as mentioned they are fragile.
Dec 11, 2010
Hank Caylor
Glenwood Springs, CO
Hank Caylor   Glenwood Springs, CO  
What a terrible description for a total classic.

edit- it did have an X rating. Feb 18, 2010
Same start for "free Anorexia" the aid Anorexia is up approx. 10'-12' feet and starts with rivets. Sep 24, 2007