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Routes in Sea of Screams

Accidents Will Happen S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Charlie Manson Look Alike Contest S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Cheap Skate S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cheap Tape S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cling Free T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cream T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Crusin' for a Brusin S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hobbit, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jet Stream S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Little Women T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Mid Life Crisis S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Monkey on a Football S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Pauper T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Scream Dream S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Scream Seam T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Silent Scream S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Snow White T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Soft-N-Pretty T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Super Slide S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Taken By Force S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Typhoon T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Who's Got the Juice S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 200 ft
FA: U F.A. Hollingsworth, Lowell 1973
Page Views: 3,742 total · 27/month
Shared By: Craig Childre on Sep 29, 2006
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Description

This route is not good for a new leader. Placing gear for the first 15 feet is awkward and working up through the middle section as well. The flared dike up in the middle section fades and can make things interesting. The second pitch is really nice. Offers some opportunities to TR some of the harder routes up that face.

Location

Climbs and obvious crack on the left side of Sea of Screams. A big boulder marks the start of this route. Rap off from the chains up top.

Protection

Standard Gear.

Photos

Or just start on the boulder to the right, you can stem out over the "start hole" and put a .75 in the flake up high on the left and then fire on up. Jan 5, 2009
Chris Walden
Soldotna, Alaska
  5.8 PG13
Chris Walden   Soldotna, Alaska
  5.8 PG13
The first part of this climb is stout and as mentioned not advising new leaders to tackle this, practice elsewhere. The crack is more of a flared water crack making placing pro difficult.

I'll grade the start more at 5.8 (easier than the S-Wall), however, the second pitch is short but runs at 5.7

The start of the climb had poison ivy and the first 15 - 20 feet is unprotectable. I would suggest climbing the boulder to the right, placing a bomber nut (photo with green arrow) with a full length sling and climb on.

Apr 24, 2015
The first 15 feet is like a flaring seam hand crack you find at Lumpy Ridge, CO. You can jam some small aliens or the like in the way back about 10 feet up. Cheers! Jul 18, 2007

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