Elevation: 373 ft
GPS: 43.039, -74.848 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 38,388 total · 236/month
Shared By: Jeff Welch on Jun 5, 2006 with improvements by James Maughan
Admins: Jim Lawyer
Access Issue: Permit Not Currently Required Details

Description

Moss Island is the most popular crag at Little Falls, and a good place to spend a day toproping or to bring new climbers to. The main cliff band is on the southern edge of the island and faces south, making it very hot on sunny summer days. The northern side of the island features several boulder problems, which stay much cooler in the summer. It is often called an "outdoor climbing gym."

I have yet to hear a definitive determination of the rock type at Moss Island. Some say it is gneiss; some say it is black granite. Regardless, Moss Island was victim to severe grafitti in years past, and while the paint is slowly wearing off, some still remains. The un-painted areas offer decent friction properties and a range of small edges and rounded slopers. The angle of the walls is quite varied, with several slabs, vertical walls, and steep overhangs.

Leading: Only a handful of routes accept good gear for leading. The rock is generally very solid, and holds gear well. Other than top anchors, not there are no protection bolts on Moss Island.

Toproping: Many of the routes have top bolts for anchors on Moss Island.  You will need long webbing to set up climbs since many of the bolts are at least 1'-4' back from the edge. Access to the top is easily gained at either end of the cliff, or via one of the many 3rd class ascent/descent routes along the wall.

Routes range from 5.0 to 5.12c, with everything in between. That said, sandbagging is a bit of a tradition here. Every inch of this wall has been climbed at some point or another, don't even think about a first ascent. The now out-of-print guidebook lists around 100 named routes; some good, some bad, some incredibly contrived. Good and popular routes of various grades include:

Jeff Loves Eileen (5.4)
The Thinker (5.7)
Older but Weissner (5.8)
Sno-White (5.8)
The Dreamer (5.9)
Curbar Edge (5.9)
Triple Overhang (5.10a)
Fool's Overture (5.10a)
Fred P. Jones (5.10+)
Spiderman (5.11d)
One Over The Hill (5.12c)

Getting There

Follow Route 169 from the NY State Thruway until you reach the large bridge spanning the river (Theodore S. Wind bridge). Just before the bridge, there is a very small road on the left with a small sign. Slow down more than you think, as there's a blind but avoidable hole that your car's suspension won't enjoy! Park in the lot under the bridge and walk up the road to the lock. Walk across the lock and followed the paved road next to the river to the cliffs.

Make sure not to park under one of the downspouts from the bridge. If it rains, your car will get thoroughly blasted.

76 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Moss Island

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 34
Jeff Loves Eileen
Trad, TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 18
Tumbleweed
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 6
Climbski
TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 16
The Thinker
TR
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 6
Crucifix
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 6
The Joker
TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 11
Sno-White
TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 8
Beer Crack
TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 9
Curbar Edge
TR
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 4
Baseball
TR
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 10
The Dreamer
TR
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Looking Glass
TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 12
Fred P. Jones
TR
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 3
Spiderman
TR
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 3
One Over The Hill
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Jeff Loves Eileen
 34
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR
Tumbleweed
 18
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Climbski
 6
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a TR
The Thinker
 16
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR
Crucifix
 6
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad, TR
The Joker
 6
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c TR
Sno-White
 11
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c TR
Beer Crack
 8
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c TR
Curbar Edge
 9
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR
Baseball
 4
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b TR
The Dreamer
 10
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b TR
Looking Glass
 3
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b TR
Fred P. Jones
 12
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c TR
Spiderman
 3
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a TR
One Over The Hill
 3
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad, TR
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