Avg: 2.7 from 29 votes
|Type:||Trad, TR, 40 ft|
|Page Views:||2,729 total · 18/month|
|Shared By:||Jeff Welch on Jun 5, 2006|
Access Issue: Permit Not Currently Required Details
A permit was once required to rock climb at Moss Island, but since 2010, does not appear to be required anymore. There is an issue getting medical vehicles to the island, so be aware. This fact may affect the permit situation in the future.
Jeff Loves Eileen is a very popular beginner climb on a slabby face - probably the most popular route at Little Falls. The route follows a diagonal crack that climbs more like a face climb than a crack climb. Good hands in the crack and small edges for feet are the name of the game, with a few jams near the top. A good choice for new climbers, or for a first trad lead.
The first large slab to the left of the large metal tower is the Jeff Loves Eileen face. The graffiti for which it's named is mostly obscured now. The face is split by two prominent, diagonal cracks; Jeff Loves Eileen is the one on the right, Goat Crack (5.2) is on the left.