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Routes in Moss Island

Beer Crack TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Beauty TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Canes Crack TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Chunky Chimbly T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Climbski TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Clown, The TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crucifix T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Curbar Edge TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Da Ma Was Here T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Dance on a Volcano TR 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Dany's Demise T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dreamer is to Hard, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dreamer, The TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Educational Corner TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Fearsome Fern Flake TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fool's Overture TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fred P. Jones TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Freddie Kreuger TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Goat Crack T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Goat Crap or The Ladder T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Good Boulder Problem V3 6A
Good Boulder Problems V-easy 3
Hang Man TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Jeff Loves Eileen T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Joker, The TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
La Mouche TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Lets Stand Him on His Head T,TR 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Little Feat TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Looking Glass TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Loose Lobster TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Marvin Gardens T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Moon Walk TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
More or Less T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mother's Day Mayhem TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mr. Smiley V5-6 6C+
Muntjack TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Older but Weissner TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
One Over The Hill T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
One to the Right, The TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Outside Looking in TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Playback T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Poof! You're a Pomegranite! TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Poof! You're an Avocado TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Power Tower T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Prince of Darkness TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Raid TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Roof Roof TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Seque T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sit on It T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a A3
Sno-White TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spider Web TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spiderman TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Super Sonic Flake T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Superman TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Thinker, The TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thit or Tam Cam Loves You T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Triple Overhang TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tumbleweed T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Un-named T,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Unhinged or the Hinge TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Vegematic TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Warmup, The TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Who Put That There? TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Windex TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,523 total, 18/month
Shared By: Jeff Welch on Jun 5, 2006
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

Jeff Loves Eileen is a very popular beginner climb on a slabby face - probably the most popular route at Little Falls. The route follows a diagonal crack that climbs more like a face climb than a crack climb. Good hands in the crack and small edges for feet are the name of the game, with a few jams near the top. A good choice for new climbers, or for a first trad lead.

Location

The first large slab to the left of the large metal tower is the Jeff Loves Eileen face. The graffiti for which it's named is mostly obscured now. The face is split by two prominent, diagonal cracks; Jeff Loves Eileen is the one on the right, Goat Crack (5.2) is on the left.

Protection

TR; bolts on top to set an anchor. The route is G rated on lead.
Nolan Huther
Clarkson University
 
Nolan Huther   Clarkson University
 
The best easy route on Moss Island and arguably the best lead. I've climbed it dozens of times and I never tire of it. May 12, 2017
Seth Largo
Kearney, Nebraska
Seth Largo   Kearney, Nebraska
The final move or two are quick, but they're just as difficult as many a verified 5.6 move I've done elsewhere. Easily protected, though. It was my friend's first gear lead and first solo . . . on the same day. Mar 15, 2016
The original guidebook lists this climb at 5.4. It is generally recognized now that the crux at the top is 5.5 thus making the climb 5.5. The gear is excellent and as of May 2014 there are bolted anchors at the top. May 11, 2014
J. Serpico
Saratoga County, NY
  5.5
J. Serpico   Saratoga County, NY
  5.5
No way this is a 5.4. I think people rate these based on top roping. Gear is great, angle is low, but the moves near the top are harder than 5.4. Definitely a good lead. Also, the official guide for the area rates it at 5.6. Apr 21, 2014
There are a couple of bomber nut and tri cam placements right on the edge for an anchor at the top of the crack. Or if you want the anchor in the center of the climb a #2 Camalot, an offset nut and a yellow alien will make a good 3 point anchor with a standard length cordalette. Nov 14, 2011
I used my 50 meter 8MM static line for a general anchor to the top of Jeff Loves Eileen face. With the rope doubled from the nearest large tree there was plenty left over. Watch out for sharp edges. Use directionals to position the anchor over your chosen climb. Oct 20, 2006