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Routes in Moss Island

Beer Crack TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Beauty TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Canes Crack TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Chunky Chimbly T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Climbski TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Clown, The TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crucifix T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Curbar Edge TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Da Ma Was Here T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Dance on a Volcano TR 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Dany's Demise T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dreamer is to Hard, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dreamer, The TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Educational Corner TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Fearsome Fern Flake TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fool's Overture TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fred P. Jones TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Freddie Kreuger TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Goat Crack T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Goat Crap or The Ladder T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Good Boulder Problem V3 6A
Good Boulder Problems V-easy 3
Hang Man TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Jeff Loves Eileen T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Joker, The TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
La Mouche TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Lets Stand Him on His Head T,TR 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Little Feat TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Looking Glass TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Loose Lobster TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Marvin Gardens T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Moon Walk TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
More or Less T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mother's Day Mayhem TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mr. Smiley V5-6 6C+
Muntjack TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Older but Weissner TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
One Over The Hill T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
One to the Right, The TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Outside Looking in TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Playback T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Poof! You're a Pomegranite! TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Poof! You're an Avocado TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Power Tower T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Prince of Darkness TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Raid TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Roof Roof TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Seque T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sit on It T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a A3
Sno-White TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spider Web TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spiderman TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Super Sonic Flake T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Superman TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Thinker, The TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thit or Tam Cam Loves You T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Triple Overhang TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tumbleweed T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Un-named T,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Unhinged or the Hinge TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Vegematic TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Warmup, The TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Who Put That There? TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Windex TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, TR, 35 ft
FA: Martin Berzins 1989
Page Views: 1,292 total, 9/month
Shared By: Jeff Welch on Jun 5, 2006 with updates
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Permit Not Currently Required Details

Description

Formerly known as The Virgin due to the fact that nobody could climb it (supposedly, even Lynn Hill made an unsuccessful attempt at it), One Over The Hill was eventually freed on lead. This thin overhanging crack is rarely climbed, and even then, usually on toprope. A series of small face holds near the crack were eventually found to be crucial to the top section of this route.

Location

The obvious, thin overhanging crack on the face to the left of Fred P. Jones.

Protection

TR, it appears that it would take good gear.

Photos

Nolan Huther
Clarkson University
Nolan Huther   Clarkson University
Talked with one of the guys, Dale I believe, who has been bouldering and climbing here since the 80's- Lynn Hill did in fact attempt this while being in the area on some sort of sponsor business and a friend took her down to Moss Island, he wasn't specific on the details. He said that the reason she couldn't get it was, unfortunately "she's short," and remembered how Berzins onsighted it (epic!) while everyone else he's seen do it make it a year to two year long project. Nov 25, 2015
Perhaps worth noting that a right toe lock on the small roof and a very long reach was key to what was the crux for me - the middle of the crack. I only just made it to the hole at the top.
Wasn't sure that I could exit as I'd not top-roped the route so crouched there unprotected while my belayer Bill Griffith went around to the top to see if the finishing holds were OK. He went back down put me back on belay and the ascent was completed. Hope this helps. Nov 3, 2012
Pablo-Roberts
Prescott, Arizona
Pablo-Roberts   Prescott, Arizona
This is THE PREMIERE line on the island. Best crack route around. Jul 21, 2011
James Otey   NH
This route is epically stout for the grade. The locks are shallow, flaring, and wretched, and placing gear is exceedingly difficult. Get ready to get your crimp on for this one.

I noticed some scars where it looks like holds have broken. It's possible that it's gotten harder over the years. I'd peg this at 5.13a.

Protects well with Aliens/TCUs and a rack-o-nuts

FA Martin Berzins, 1989 Aug 27, 2009