Type: Trad, TR, 35 ft
FA: Martin Berzins 1989
Page Views: 1,474 total · 9/month
Shared By: Jeff Welch on Jun 5, 2006 with improvements by Bruce Monroe
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Formerly known as The Virgin due to the fact that nobody could climb it (supposedly, even Lynn Hill made an unsuccessful attempt at it), One Over The Hill was eventually freed on lead. This thin overhanging crack is rarely climbed, and even then, usually on toprope. A series of small face holds near the crack were eventually found to be crucial to the top section of this route.


The obvious, thin overhanging crack on the face to the left of Fred P. Jones.


TR, it appears that it would take good gear.


This route is epically stout for the grade. The locks are shallow, flaring, and wretched, and placing gear is exceedingly difficult. Get ready to get your crimp on for this one.

I noticed some scars where it looks like holds have broken. It's possible that it's gotten harder over the years. I'd peg this at 5.13a.

Protects well with Aliens/TCUs and a rack-o-nuts

FA Martin Berzins, 1989 Aug 27, 2009
Prescott, Arizona
Pablo-Roberts   Prescott, Arizona
This is THE PREMIERE line on the island. Best crack route around. Jul 21, 2011
Perhaps worth noting that a right toe lock on the small roof and a very long reach was key to what was the crux for me - the middle of the crack. I only just made it to the hole at the top.
Wasn't sure that I could exit as I'd not top-roped the route so crouched there unprotected while my belayer Bill Griffith went around to the top to see if the finishing holds were OK. He went back down put me back on belay and the ascent was completed. Hope this helps. Nov 3, 2012
Nolan Huther
Potsdam, NY
Nolan Huther   Potsdam, NY
I'm nowhere close to sending but it amazes me how this is such a sleeper. Definitely a high quality short route that deserves some attention. Stout sequences of steep crack and face movement - the Little Falls trad testpiece. I tried it on TR solo a few times and it gets me excited whenever I'm home as there just aren't many climbs like it, especially a short drive from where I grew up!

Also, given the steepness of the route and its slight east-facing aspect, it can stay protected from wind, rain and even blizzards as long as the updrafts aren't too strong. Mar 10, 2019