Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 684 total · 6/month
Shared By: James Otey on Aug 27, 2009
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

A bit left of the duck ramp and obvious face of Jeff Loves Eileen lies a right angling hand crack with copious jugs. No distinct crux, just good old low angle monkeying.

Location

Just right of Sit on It and left of the duck ramp

Protection

Standard rack. Has bolts on top for setting an anchor.

Photos

J. Serpico
Saratoga County, NY
  5.5
J. Serpico   Saratoga County, NY
  5.5
Not sure I'd call it low angle. The crux is the first 15 feet off the ground. That section is overhanging (bulgy). On lead it's a pumpy 5.4...which shouldn't happen on a 5.4. The lower ledges/foot holds are also polished, so stances are tough. IMHO, much harder than Jeff Loves Eileen or anything on the Goat Crack Wall. On top rope, I'm certain you can book through the overhanging section without even noticing it but the low crux means you either place gear or solo it. Definitely a hard 5.4 lead despite the great gear (G). Apr 21, 2014
There is now a bolt anchor at the top of this climb. Jul 18, 2014
James Otey
  5.4
James Otey  
  5.4
This is an ideal first trad lead because you can get good gear every couple feet, the foot holds are solid, and the topout is secure.

Great to hear it got bolted anchors. Hopefully that will reduce the vegetation damage that had been occurring over the years. Definitely a classic of the area! Jun 28, 2016