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Routes in Moss Island

Beer Crack TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Beauty TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Canes Crack TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Chunky Chimbly T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Climbski TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Clown, The TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crucifix T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Curbar Edge TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Da Ma Was Here T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Dance on a Volcano TR 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Dany's Demise T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dreamer is to Hard, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dreamer, The TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Educational Corner TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Fearsome Fern Flake TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fool's Overture TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fred P. Jones TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Freddie Kreuger TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Goat Crack T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Goat Crap or The Ladder T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Good Boulder Problem V3 6A
Good Boulder Problems V-easy 3
Hang Man TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Jeff Loves Eileen T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Joker, The TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
La Mouche TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Lets Stand Him on His Head T,TR 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Little Feat TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Looking Glass TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Loose Lobster TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Marvin Gardens T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Moon Walk TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
More or Less T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mother's Day Mayhem TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mr. Smiley V5-6 6C+
Muntjack TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Older but Weissner TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
One Over The Hill T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
One to the Right, The TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Outside Looking in TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Playback T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Poof! You're a Pomegranite! TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Poof! You're an Avocado TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Power Tower T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Prince of Darkness TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Raid TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Roof Roof TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Seque T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sit on It T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a A3
Sno-White TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spider Web TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spiderman TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Super Sonic Flake T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Superman TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Thinker, The TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thit or Tam Cam Loves You T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Triple Overhang TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tumbleweed T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Un-named T,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Unhinged or the Hinge TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Vegematic TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Warmup, The TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Who Put That There? TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Windex TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 577 total, 6/month
Shared By: James Otey on Aug 27, 2009
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Permit Not Currently Required Details

Description

A bit left of the duck ramp and obvious face of Jeff Loves Eileen lies a right angling hand crack with copious jugs. No distinct crux, just good old low angle monkeying.

Location

Just right of Sit on It and left of the duck ramp

Protection

Standard rack. Has bolts on top for setting an anchor.

Photos

James Otey
NH
 
James Otey   NH
 
This is an ideal first trad lead because you can get good gear every couple feet, the foot holds are solid, and the topout is secure.

Great to hear it got bolted anchors. Hopefully that will reduce the vegetation damage that had been occurring over the years. Definitely a classic of the area! Jun 28, 2016
There is now a bolt anchor at the top of this climb. Jul 18, 2014
J. Serpico
Saratoga County, NY
  5.5
J. Serpico   Saratoga County, NY
  5.5
Not sure I'd call it low angle. The crux is the first 15 feet off the ground. That section is overhanging (bulgy). On lead it's a pumpy 5.4...which shouldn't happen on a 5.4. The lower ledges/foot holds are also polished, so stances are tough. IMHO, much harder than Jeff Loves Eileen or anything on the Goat Crack Wall. On top rope, I'm certain you can book through the overhanging section without even noticing it but the low crux means you either place gear or solo it. Definitely a hard 5.4 lead despite the great gear (G). Apr 21, 2014