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Routes in Moss Island

Beer Crack TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Beauty TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Canes Crack TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Chunky Chimbly T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Climbski TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Clown, The TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crucifix T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Curbar Edge TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Da Ma Was Here T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Dance on a Volcano TR 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Dany's Demise T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dreamer is to Hard, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dreamer, The TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Educational Corner TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Fearsome Fern Flake TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fool's Overture TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fred P. Jones TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Freddie Kreuger TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Goat Crack T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Goat Crap or The Ladder T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Good Boulder Problem V3 6A
Good Boulder Problems V-easy 3
Hang Man TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Jeff Loves Eileen T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Joker, The TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
La Mouche TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Lets Stand Him on His Head T,TR 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Little Feat TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Looking Glass TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Loose Lobster TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Marvin Gardens T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Moon Walk TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
More or Less T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mother's Day Mayhem TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mr. Smiley V5-6 6C+
Muntjack TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Older but Weissner TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
One Over The Hill T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
One to the Right, The TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Outside Looking in TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Playback T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Poof! You're a Pomegranite! TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Poof! You're an Avocado TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Power Tower T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Prince of Darkness TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Raid TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Roof Roof TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Seque T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sit on It T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a A3
Sno-White TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spider Web TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spiderman TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Super Sonic Flake T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Superman TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Thinker, The TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thit or Tam Cam Loves You T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Triple Overhang TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tumbleweed T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Un-named T,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Unhinged or the Hinge TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Vegematic TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Warmup, The TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Who Put That There? TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Windex TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 926 total, 7/month
Shared By: Jeff Welch on Jun 5, 2006
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Permit Not Currently Required Details

Description

Rumor has it that the FA of this route was done by a local goat. It, and its neighbor Jeff Loves Eileen, make good beginner climbs, and take good gear as well.

Location

The first large slab to the left of the large metal tower is the Jeff Loves Eileen face. The graffiti for which it's named is mostly obscured now. The face is split by two prominent, diagonal cracks; Jeff Loves Eileen is the one on the right; Goat Crack (5.2) is on the left.

Protection

TR using VERY long webbing/static, or better, use the many available gear placements. The route is G rated on lead.

Photos

Bolts are at the top. It is the only climb there that has been climbed so much that it is glass now for a few of the holds. 14 hours ago
J. Serpico
Saratoga County, NY
  5.4
J. Serpico   Saratoga County, NY
  5.4
Great gear the whole way up. Nuts down low, you can place a small cam (purple and green camalots) towards the top. The official guide for the area list this at 5.4 or 5.5. I'm inclined to agree it's harder than 5.2, though maybe 5.5 is highly optimistic. Apr 21, 2014
This was my very first climb EVER!!!! Thanks Goat May 4, 2010
Mitch Hoffman
Fonda NY
Mitch Hoffman   Fonda NY
This climb was my first trad lead and is a great place for anyone to give leading a try. Apr 7, 2010
I agree, this climb can be sewn up with a set of nuts and some doubles in the off fingers size. Nov 21, 2009
Charlie S
Ogden, UT
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
A great place for beginners to start. The crack's really good for passive gear if you don't have the budget for cams quite yet. There's also a large boulder on the top to set up solid top rope anchors. Dec 15, 2007