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Routes in Fourth Buttress

.... Variation of Mickey Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Candelaria's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flake T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Heartland, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mickey Mantel T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Northwest Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scrundle Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Smooth Groove T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Face Roof 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2
Southwest Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Undocumented Free Roof T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unknown Mixed Route aka The Green Gargoyle? T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unknown, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Zolar Czakl T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Zolar Czakl (Direct) T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Elevation: 5,548 ft
GPS: 40.012, -105.309 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 11,480 total, 81/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Mar 29, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

Description

The Fourth Buttress has several good routes: Northwest Face, 8+; The Heartland, 9+; Zolar Czakl (Direct), 10- R. There is a small buttress on top of the 4th Buttress which contain a few more feet of climbing, if you are so inclined. Access for the right side of the buttress is unclear, so tread cautiously, please.

L->R:

A. Flake, 10 R, 1-2p, gear.
B. Zolar Czakl, 9+, 1-2p, gear.
C. Zolar Czakl (Direct), 10- R, 1-2p, gear.
D. Northwest Face, 8, 1-2p, gear.
E. The Heartland, 9+, 1-2p, 210', gear.
F. Southwest Chimney?, 4, 1-2p, 100', gear.
G. South Face Roof, 7 A3 or C2, 1-2p, gear.
H. Undocumented Free Roof, 9-, 1p, 100', gear.
I1. Scrundle Corner, 9+, 1p, 100', gear.
I2. Smooth Groove, 7+, 1p, 100', gear.
J. Unknown Mixed Route aka The Green Gargoyle?, 10+, 1p, 70', gear.
K. Endgame?, 10-, 1-2p, gear.
above K. Candelaria's Crack, 8+, 1p, 30', gear.
L? Scrundle Corner, 9+, 1p, 100', gear.
M? Smooth Groove, 7+, 1p, 100', gear.
N? Green Gargoyle, 10, 1p, 120', gear.
O. .... Variation of Mickey Mantel, 10, 2p, 150', gear.
P. Mickey Mantel, 9, 2p, 150-200', gear.
Q? Azimuth?, 10, 1-2p, gear
R? Mr. Atrophy?, 12-, 1-2p, gear.
S? Wait Until Dark?, 10, 1-2p, gear.
T? After Dark?, 10+, 1-2p, gear.
U? Cloddy Corner?, 6, 1-2p, gear.

Above the 4th Buttress
AA. Petite Arete, 8+ PG-13, 1p, 40', gear.
BB. Grand Jam Left, 9 R, 1p, 40', gear.
CC. Grand Jam, 7, 1p, 40', gear.
DD. Grand Jam Right, 7+, 1p, 40', gear.
Seasonal Closure Details

Getting There

For routes on the left side of the face, there 2 alternatives. 1) more popular - cross the bridge, hike up to the water pipe, and walk right to the end of the pipe, at the tunnel between the Third and Fourth Buttress. 2) you can hike on the larger trail along the river to below the crag and do a loose scramble up to the buttress. You can belay here, anchoring in to a huge eye bolt in the rock or you can cautiously scramble across to below the face and create a belay.

There are routes which lie on the south face of the Fourth Buttress. To access these, you have to walk along a trail near the creek until you're around on the south side of the crag. Approaching these from the east is not recommended.

Descents

There are multiple options for descent: 1) If the water level is low enough, the easier descent may be the water tunnel between the Third and Fourth Buttress. Be prepared for darkness and wet legs/feet; watch your head in the tunnel. 2) You can also scramble down between the Second and Third Buttress and rappel 90' from the tree atop Pine Tree Route. 3) You can downclimb the 4th class gully between the 2nd & 3rd buttresses. It is exposed, thus it is not ideal in the rain or with beginners. 4) If you're not in a hurry, you can walk down between the First Buttress and the Dome, and walk the water pipe all the way back to the Fourth Buttress.

15 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Fourth Buttress

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Aeon Aki    
Though I wouldn't trust the cemented chain by itself, the fixed sling paired with it provided a safe rap to the ground. Maybe not necessary, but convenient nonetheless. Oct 8, 2007
fluffy  
There is now a rap/toprope anchor consisting of a horn slung with cable and a bolt with chain at the top. One 60m leaves plenty of room to get back to the pipe. Thanks to whomever installed this. May 12, 2006

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