Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 460 total · 6/month
Shared By: Tony B on May 2, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

This is a moderate climb that must surely have been done before, but it does not match any documentation we could find. The crux lies in some fun and secure jamming and jugs coming out a left-leaning overhang at the right side of the old aid roof. The remainder of the climbing is mostly easier, mostly solid, and it is all well-protected.

The route starts up a steep crack system (5.7) just below and right of the old aid roof. This lies just to the right of a lower angle system that might be more commonly used. Despite its steepness in a few spots, it is not hard. It may be about 5.7 or 5.8 with good protection. The angle reduces as you approach the roof, and you may notice a fixed angle in a horizontal crack in the last small bulge before the roof. Come up and into the roof and place a hand-sized cam in an overhanging, left-leaning crack behind what looks like a huge chockstone that forms the right-hand side of the roof and climb out that on jams and jugs. This is surprisingly easy given its appearance, with a grade of perhaps 5.9- for only a move or two, and has good protection.

Continue up over the bulge and get established on the crack system at the right hand edge of the rib of rock you are now on, following that line to just below a summit where a cable anchor with aluminum rap-rings can be accessed.

Location

This route climbs from the center of the gravely ledge on the West End of the South Face of the 4th Elephant.

The route starts up a steep crack system (5.7) just below and right of the old aid roof, continues out a very steep handcrack at the left side of a trapped 4' "chockstone" just right of the aid roof, and then up the cracks and flakes on the prow to a fixed cable anchor as for the Aid Roof.

Protection

A standard rack from small to 3" with several long slings.

A fixed cable rap anchor up top (as for the aid roof) allows retreat to the gravelly ledge with a 60m or 70m rope.

Photos

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