Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Fourth Buttress

.... Variation of Mickey Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Candelaria's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flake T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Heartland, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mickey Mantel T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Northwest Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scrundle Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Smooth Groove T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Face Roof 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2
Southwest Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Undocumented Free Roof T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unknown Mixed Route aka The Green Gargoyle? T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unknown, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Zolar Czakl T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Zolar Czakl (Direct) T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 411 total, 6/month
Shared By: Tony B on May 2, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This is a moderate climb that must surely have been done before, but it does not match any documentation we could find. The crux lies in some fun and secure jamming and jugs coming out a left-leaning overhang at the right side of the old aid roof. The remainder of the climbing is mostly easier, mostly solid, and it is all well-protected.

The route starts up a steep crack system (5.7) just below and right of the old aid roof. This lies just to the right of a lower angle system that might be more commonly used. Despite its steepness in a few spots, it is not hard. It may be about 5.7 or 5.8 with good protection. The angle reduces as you approach the roof, and you may notice a fixed angle in a horizontal crack in the last small bulge before the roof. Come up and into the roof and place a hand-sized cam in an overhanging, left-leaning crack behind what looks like a huge chockstone that forms the right-hand side of the roof and climb out that on jams and jugs. This is surprisingly easy given its appearance, with a grade of perhaps 5.9- for only a move or two, and has good protection.

Continue up over the bulge and get established on the crack system at the right hand edge of the rib of rock you are now on, following that line to just below a summit where a cable anchor with aluminum rap-rings can be accessed.

Location

This route climbs from the center of the gravely ledge on the West End of the South Face of the 4th Elephant.

The route starts up a steep crack system (5.7) just below and right of the old aid roof, continues out a very steep handcrack at the left side of a trapped 4' "chockstone" just right of the aid roof, and then up the cracks and flakes on the prow to a fixed cable anchor as for the Aid Roof.

Protection

A standard rack from small to 3" with several long slings.

A fixed cable rap anchor up top (as for the aid roof) allows retreat to the gravelly ledge with a 60m or 70m rope.

Photos

0 Comments