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Routes in Fourth Buttress

.... Variation of Mickey Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Candelaria's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flake T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Heartland, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mickey Mantel T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Northwest Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scrundle Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Smooth Groove T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Face Roof 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2
Southwest Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Undocumented Free Roof T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unknown Mixed Route aka The Green Gargoyle? T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unknown, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Zolar Czakl T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Zolar Czakl (Direct) T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 494 total, 7/month
Shared By: Tony B on May 2, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This route could be a lot better if it were cleaned up. However, this side of the rock draws few climbers, and it is unlikely to clean up from traffic - something more deliberate would be required... if you do it, please take a brush.

From the "grassy ledge" on the Western side of the South Face of the 4th Elephant, search the wall above through some block bulges for 2 bolts, these are perhaps 15 meters to the right of the old aid roof. If you are having trouble distinguishing where the aid roof is, there is a round-looking 4-foot wide chockstone with a handcrack on the left side of it just to the right of the old aid roof... but I digress....

Climb up towards the first of the 2 bolts from below and left, protecting on a few nuts and cams. The climbing is made somewhat insecure by lichen but is not terribly hard. Clip the first bolt and get into pinches and underclings (crux) to get to the second bolt. Clip that and head up into the last bulge (med stopper overhead) and fight up onto a sloping ledge (second crux).

Continue upward and slightly right on very moderate terrain with reasonable gear to the base of some obvious cracks (Endgame, 5.10a) and belay or continue to the top, depending on your level of rope drag.

Location

This route starts up on the gravely ledge on the West end of the South Face of the 4th Elephant. It is toward the right hand side of that ledge. Spot the 2 bolts from the ledge.

Protection

A light rack - 1 set of cams, 1 set of stoppers including the large ones, and plenty of long slings.

Photos

I suspect that the lower part of "GG" had been led before the two bolts were installed. Furthermore, the 10b second pitch described in Drew's comment seems to be the upper part of Endgame (FFA: Jim Erickson, solo, 1973).

In the route description of "GG" (above), Tony refers to Endgame as an obvious finish. The upper half of the green line in the beta photo is definitely on Endgame. I've led it. Nov 23, 2014
Drew Spaulding
Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Drew Spaulding   Boulder, CO
  5.11a
I think this pitch is 5.11a past the 2 bolts and up through the final roof before easing off. Climb up and right to the nice ledge at the base of the green lichened pillar above.... Climb up the right-leaning, thin hand crack (ENDGAME), and step left up under the roof. A small cam (1/4") protects the exciting face moves on huge jugs (5.9+) to gain the continuing crack above (ENDGAME). The GREEN GARGOYLE start and the ENDGAME finish provides for a beautiful 2 pitches, 5.11a, 5.10b. May 28, 2012