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Routes in Fourth Buttress

.... Variation of Mickey Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Candelaria's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flake T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Heartland, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mickey Mantel T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Northwest Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scrundle Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Smooth Groove T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Face Roof 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2
Southwest Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Undocumented Free Roof T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unknown Mixed Route aka The Green Gargoyle? T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unknown, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Zolar Czakl T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Zolar Czakl (Direct) T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Jim Erickson, Solo, 1974
Page Views: 661 total, 6/month
Shared By: James Beissel on Apr 21, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

In case you are unable to identify this route as a bomb line, and against all better judgment decide to climb it anyway, be warned! This chimney has a large, very loose death block resembling a 10' torpedo perched on end. A gentle tap of the foot is enough to wobble this two ton mass of granite on its base.

If it were not for the scary block and abundant choss, this route does have 20-30' of decent chimney and might appeal to someone looking to improve their skills in that area.

Location

This chimney is located at the uppermost (west) end of the grassy ramp that runs along the bottom of the south side of the Fourth Elephant Buttress just left of a steep, blocky, 10' wide fin of rock. This is about 30' left of the South Face Roof route.

A number of descent options exist, see the Fourth Elephant Buttress overview page.

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos

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