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Routes in Fourth Buttress

.... Variation of Mickey Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Candelaria's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flake T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Heartland, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mickey Mantel T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Northwest Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scrundle Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Smooth Groove T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Face Roof 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2
Southwest Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Undocumented Free Roof T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unknown Mixed Route aka The Green Gargoyle? T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unknown, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Zolar Czakl T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Zolar Czakl (Direct) T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
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Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: FRA: Joe Frank and Steve Hall, 1975. Variation: ???
Page Views: 537 total · 11/month
Shared By: Drew Spaulding on Nov 10, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

Instead of scrambling up to the grassy ledge, start from the very bottom near the apple tree.

Pitch 1 - carefully start up the decomposed slab to big jugs below the large roof that helps gain the wall. Place a yellow Alien/TCU in the small, diagonal crack in the steep face left of the roof crack. A pink Tri-cam fits well at the lip of the roof crack. Be sure of these pieces because the powerful moves over the roof (5.10b) could spit you off.... Follow the diagonal seem up and right. Climb straight up through a small roof to gain the classic, left-facing corner (5.9) above. Mantel onto the beautiful ledge to set a belay. Climbing this whole route as 1 pitch is possible, but rope drag is not fun....

Pitch 2 - climb the arching, right-facing corner (5.10a) past wild moves above the belay ledge. Continue up the moderate ramp to gain the obvious corner crack (5.8) on the back (east) side of the Green Gargoyle tower. Jam the hand crack in the corner to the top of the Green Gargoyle.

Lots of incredible holds and crack climbing make this a really classic route!

Protection

Many smaller nuts to 3" protect this journey. Descend from the top of Scrundle Corner....

Photos

This route (purple line on the posted photo) has appeared in guidebooks going back to 1976. It is called Mickey Mantel (FRA: Joe Frank and Steve Hall, 1975). Nov 21, 2014
Drew Spaulding
Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Drew Spaulding   Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Thanks, George, for the info and the history on this line. I assumed that someone had climbed sections of this line in the past... After cleaning and excavating many important placements, I wondered...? After the large roof on the left that we climbed, the diagonal seem trending rightward was choked with dirt and moss to the point that it didn't appear any one had ever placed gear there before... Now it has been cleaned and takes good nuts for protection. I also cleaned the classic corner section above of dirt, grass, and bushes.... This is when I thought that this line had possibly not been climbed before....
After reading Tony B's description of Mickey's Mantel, it seems the start is the crack/corner feature 15' to the right of the pumpy roof that we climbed. Then, the top of the 1st pitch at the belay ledge/cave, "Mickey's Mantle" pulls the dramatic, steep, "ledge fall potential" roof out the left side of the "cave belay" and into the obvious thin crack above. We instead climbed the arching, right-facing corner above the belay ledge that took some obvious cleaning too (which may have been climbed or not???). We chose to finish up with the dihedral around the back, and that seemed to have seen some traffic in the past.
Overall, the line that we climbed is quite classic and really fun, especially after some much needed cleaning! I'll have to climb the start to the right sometime. I would recommend climbing the arching corner instead of the wild, "barely protected, ledge-fall "Mantle" above the belay ledge. Many different variations exist for this classic line.... Nov 25, 2014
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
Can't say as if I have any info on that first pitch as you describe it, but the first time I went up to do MM my partner didn't like the ledge fall and bailed out to the right. So I can tell you that was done a decade ago. I went up it a second time to do the mantle proper and Partick F. followed me that time. So P2 has history despite not being the proper route. I'll have to see if P1 is one of the things Jason and I did when we went up there to "do the rest" in 2012. That's when we did the "Undocumented roof" and saw GG and documented that as well. Jason did sketches of everything, but I just took a few pics for later reference and went from that. Nov 28, 2014
Drew Spaulding
Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Drew Spaulding   Boulder, CO
  5.10b
The tricky gear and the incredible handlebar jug over the lip of the roof are quite memorable and hard to forget.... Really fun moves! Nov 30, 2014
Jason Haas
G1 Climbing + Fitness
Jason Haas   G1 Climbing + Fitness
This start has been lead before now. I did it with Ben Schneider, and I'm sure it's been done before even then. Also P2 is most likely the route called Azimuth, although Dan Hare doesn't fully recall where they went but is pretty positive that's it. Feb 22, 2015

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