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Routes in Topknot

Grand Jam T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grand Jam Left T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Grand Jam Right T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Petite Arete T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, 25 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 77 total · 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on May 8, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This is another route to add to the other 3 if you are up there. It is not worth a trip, but if you are on top, you might as well do 4 routes for 100 feet climbing, as 3 for 75. This is a 4th route and is the second hardest of them. While I can find no documentation of it, it seems likely that it has been done many-a-time.

Climb up onto a large spike of rock on the arete and establish yourself onto some footholds. This initial 'flake' looks loose at first, but inspection showed that it was well attached at the base, and part of the main cliff. Use a horizontal to protect and stabilize, then continue to the top of the rock. This is more of a boulder problem than anything, but it has a terrible landing in TV-sized jumbled rocks on a slope, so perhaps roping up is for the better.

Location

On the left-most corner of the Topknot, left of the Grand Jam Left, this is the arete is featured with spikes and flakes. Climb this arete.

Protection

A few small cams or nuts. Watch out so as not to place them behind weak flakes.

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