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Routes in Mountain Rose

Ancient of Days, The S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Axed S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Better You Than Me / Around the Corner S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Big Tuna S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Coming Up Roses S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Geezer Squeezer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Golden Rose S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Grizzly Rose S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Heat Wave S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hummingbird T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Mountain Rose T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Short But Sweet T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Short Sport Route S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sick Puppy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Steel Pulse S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
War Drums T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Wyoming Prairie Dogs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Yellow Tail S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Description

Per Mark Rolofson: (amended at his request, to describe more recent developments there) The Mountain Rose crags are home to 11 sport climbs ranging in difficulty from 5.8 to 5.12b and 6 trad lines from 5.5 to 5.10. The crags sit across the river and uphill of Castle Rock to the south along the aqueduct path. These two side by side crags face Northwest and get afternoon sun. They are a great place to find shade on a Summer morning. These crags do not have the striking crack lines, smooth granite, and long routes of Castle Rock. Much of Mountain Rose Crags was dynamited to build the aqueduct, & this blasted rock varies in quality from solid to very decomposed. 8 sport routes & 2 trad routes ascend the quarried rock.

Per Tony B: (legacy description prior to recent development, to provide prospective on the older climbs) This rock lies across the river and uphill of Castle Rock to the Southwest. It faces somewhat Northeast and gets a little sun in the AM, I figure, although I have never been on it then. It does get some mid-day sun for sure. This rock is not to be confused with the solid, nice granite and long routes on Castle Rock. Its proximity to a good crag was not a contagion, and it is a fact that this rock is less desirable, with the right buttress being the least so. The cliff is also considerably smaller and closer than it appears to be at first.

The cliff has two main buttresses, Right and Left, as Rossiter refers to them in Boulder Canyon Climbs - the difference between the two being self-explanatory. There are a few each of trad and sport lines. There are no must-do classics on this crag of which I am aware. There seem to be some "don't bother" lines, and some "Don't do them even if you are passing by" lines. My own personal experience at this crag has been negative. The one line that calls from below, 'Short But Sweet' is a dihedral capped by a roof. This called me up to the crag but left me with a terrible taste in my mouth, particularly as my partner was rained on by kitty-litter-like rock for most of my time on the route.

Per Mark Rolofson: the East (left) crag is the larger with routes varying in length from 50 to 80 feet. Most of the routes are on this crag including the routes that ascend natural rock (that wasn't dynamited). The two classic sport climbs on natural rock are "Ancient Of Days" (5.9-) & "Sick Puppy" (5.12b) a desperate slab.

The West (right) crag is smaller with only 4 routes varying in length from 30 to 60 feet. This crag has the easiest sport route "Around The Corner" (5.8).

These crags are an excellent warm-up before heading to the 5.13 routes on the Frisky Cliff. They sit in a beautiful spot, high above the canyon floor with a great view of Castle Rock's south face. Enjoy the flowers & clean mountain air.

The first routes were established around 1990. They were minimally bolted without top anchors. Starting in 2005, numerous sport routes have been established & several older routes have been retrobolted. This a now a fun area with safe routes.

L->R these may be:

East Crag

A. Coming Up Roses, 9, 1p, 70', bolts.
B. Mountain Rose, 10- R, 1p, 60', gear & gear.
C. Grizzly Rose, 10, 1p, 50', bolts.
D. Golden Rose, 12-, 1p, 60', bolts.
E. Unknown, 10, 1p, gear.
F. Yellow Tail, 11+, 1p, 50', bolts.
G. Steel Pulse, 11, 1p, 60', bolts.
H. Big Tuna, 11-, 1p, bolts.
I. Axed, 9+, 1p, 60', bolts.
J. Wyoming Prairie Dogs, 10-, 1p, 50', bolts.
K. The Ancient Of Days, 8- X (now 8-), 1p, gear or TR (now retrobolts).
L? Time Lords?, 7 R, 1p, gear.
M? Geezer Squeezer, 9 PG-13, 1p, 101', gear & bolts.
N. Hummingbird, 5, 1p, 140', gear.
O. War Drums, 9, 1p, 100', gear.
PO. Sick Puppy, 12, 1p, 50', bolts.

West Crag

Q. Short Sport Route, 10+, 1p, 30', bolts.
R. Short But Sweet, 8, 1p, gear.
S Heat Wave, 9+, 1p, 60', bolts.
T. Better You Than Me / Around the Corner, 8 X, 1p, 55', gear or TR (now retrobolts).
Seasonal Closure Details

Getting There

From the right side of Castle Rock, cross the bridge & walk right along the base of Broken Rock. The first section is just above the stream. At High water flows it requires a short scramble on a slab to gain a path through the boulders. Follow the base of Broken Rock to its upper right side & the bouldering on the far right of The Overlook. Walk right (south) around a fallen tree & then back left uphill. Walk uphill for a few hundred feet to the flat path along the aqueduct. You will see several manhole covers & hear flowing water. Walk right (southwest) on this wide roadbed path for 400 feet to the left side of the East Mountain Rose Crag. Continue right to your chosen route.

History

This crag lies close to the Barker to Kossler Reservoirs pipeline route that was constructed in 1909.

18 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mountain Rose

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
Agreed. I'd think it most appropriate to edit this page without completely changing the expressed opinions. I think appropriate amendment is in order though. The Admins are welcome to referee that. I'm not terribly invested in it one way or the other, other that to insure that a reader is informed that there are still some older, particularly loose/dangerous/low quality climbs up there and not to get onto any given climb expecting that they are all good. Apr 17, 2015
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
Based upon the above comments, I've gone ahead and reassigned this to Mark for editing. Apr 17, 2015
Thanks, Tony. I am not sure how to turn a page over to someone else. If you know how, that would be great. Much appreciated. Apr 15, 2015

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