Elevation: 8,031 ft
GPS: 39.979, -105.453 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 13,174 total · 70/month
Shared By: Mark Rolofson on May 19, 2003 with updates from Chris Weidner
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

The Mountain Rose crags are home to 11 sport climbs ranging in difficulty from 5.8 to 5.12b and 6 trad lines from 5.5 to 5.10. The crags sit across the river and uphill of Castle Rock to the south along the aqueduct path. These two side by side crags face Northwest and get afternoon sun. They are a great place to find shade on a Summer morning. These crags do not have the striking crack lines, smooth granite, and long routes of Castle Rock. Much of Mountain Rose Crags was dynamited to build the aqueduct, & this blasted rock varies in quality from solid to very decomposed. 8 sport routes & 2 trad routes ascend the quarried rock.

The East (left) crag is the larger with routes varying in length from 50 to 80 feet. Most of the routes are on this crag including the routes that ascend natural rock (that wasn't dynamited). The two classic sport climbs on natural rock are "Ancient Of Days" (5.9-) & "Sick Puppy" (5.12b) a desperate slab.

The West (right) crag is smaller with only 4 routes varying in length from 30 to 60 feet. This crag has the easiest sport route "Around The Corner" (5.8).

These crags are an excellent warm-up before heading to the 5.13 routes on the Frisky Cliff. They sit in a beautiful spot, high above the canyon floor with a great view of Castle Rock's south face. Enjoy the flowers & clean mountain air.

The first routes were established around 1990. They were minimally bolted without top anchors. Starting in 2005, numerous sport routes have been established & several older routes have been retrobolted. This a now a fun area with safe routes.

L->R these may be:

East Crag

A. Coming Up Roses, 9, 1p, 70', bolts.
B. Mountain Rose, 10- R, 1p, 60', gear & gear.
C. Grizzly Rose, 10, 1p, 50', bolts.
D. Golden Rose, 12-, 1p, 60', bolts.
E. Unknown, 10, 1p, gear.
F. Yellow Tail, 11+, 1p, 50', bolts.
G. Steel Pulse, 11, 1p, 60', bolts.
H. Big Tuna, 11-, 1p, bolts.
I. Axed, 9+, 1p, 60', bolts.
J. Wyoming Prairie Dogs, 10-, 1p, 50', bolts.
K. The Ancient Of Days, 8- X (now 8-), 1p, gear or TR (now retrobolts).
L? Time Lords?, 7 R, 1p, gear.
M? Geezer Squeezer, 9 PG-13, 1p, 101', gear & bolts.
N. Hummingbird, 5, 1p, 140', gear.
O. War Drums, 9, 1p, 100', gear.
PO. Sick Puppy, 12, 1p, 50', bolts.

West Crag

Q. Short Sport Route, 10+, 1p, 30', bolts.
R. Short But Sweet, 8, 1p, gear.
S Dirty Rose, 10, 1p, 60', bolts.
T. Heat Wave, 9+, 1p, 60', bolts.
U. Better You Than Me / Around the Corner, 8 X, 1p, 55', gear or TR (now retrobolts).

Getting There

From the right side of Castle Rock, cross the bridge & walk right along the base of Broken Rock. The first section is just above the stream. At High water flows it requires a short scramble on a slab to gain a path through the boulders. Follow the base of Broken Rock to its upper right side & the bouldering on the far right of The Overlook. Walk right (south) around a fallen tree & then back left uphill. Walk uphill for a few hundred feet to the flat path along the aqueduct. You will see several manhole covers & hear flowing water. Walk right (southwest) on this wide roadbed path for 400 feet to the left side of the East Mountain Rose Crag. Continue right to your chosen route.

History

This crag lies close to the Barker to Kossler Reservoirs pipeline route that was constructed in 1909.

19 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mountain Rose

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 31
The Ancient of Days
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 23
Wyoming Prairie Dogs
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 18
Axed
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 27
Grizzly Rose
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 27
Big Tuna
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 15
Steel Pulse
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 6
Sick Puppy
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Ancient of Days
 31
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Wyoming Prairie Dogs
 23
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Axed
 18
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Grizzly Rose
 27
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Big Tuna
 27
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Steel Pulse
 15
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Sick Puppy
 6
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Mountain Rose »

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Thanks, Tony. I am not sure how to turn a page over to someone else. If you know how, that would be great. Much appreciated. Apr 15, 2015
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
Based upon the above comments, I've gone ahead and reassigned this to Mark for editing. Apr 17, 2015
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
Agreed. I'd think it most appropriate to edit this page without completely changing the expressed opinions. I think appropriate amendment is in order though. The Admins are welcome to referee that. I'm not terribly invested in it one way or the other, other that to insure that a reader is informed that there are still some older, particularly loose/dangerous/low quality climbs up there and not to get onto any given climb expecting that they are all good. Apr 17, 2015