Mountain Rose Rock Climbing
|GPS:||39.979, -105.453 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||Mark Rolofson on May 19, 2003 · Updates|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Per Katherine Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a five month closure to protect nesting golden eagles, the Roosevelt National Forest has reopened Eagle Rock climbing area in Boulder Canyon.
“The Boulder Canyon eagles successfully raised one strong and healthy eaglet this year,” said wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha with the USDA Forest Service. “Two chicks hatched initially, but unfortunately only one survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Post-fledging visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the second chick, but cooperation by climbers with the closures are crucial to the eagles’ success each season.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nesting site. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, the nest site stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made unused areas reopened in April.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk in Boulder Canyon. These areas are located along Colorado Highway 119, approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls.
Effective through July 31, 2020, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral and Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal and state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, and wildlife professionals under an agreement with the Forest Service enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest and the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, and the public. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures and leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office at 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec…
(click on Boulder Canyon for more info).
Starting 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and all activities until 7/31/2020. This was confirmed with Matt Henry, Recreation Program Manager, Forest Service.
From K. Armstrong, FS Public Affairs, email@example.com, 970-222-7607: starting 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giviSee - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
The East (left) crag is the larger with routes varying in length from 50 to 80 feet. Most of the routes are on this crag including the routes that ascend natural rock (that wasn't dynamited). The two classic sport climbs on natural rock are "Ancient Of Days" (5.9-) & "Sick Puppy" (5.12b) a desperate slab.
The West (right) crag is smaller with only 4 routes varying in length from 30 to 60 feet. This crag has the easiest sport route "Around The Corner" (5.8).
These crags are an excellent warm-up before heading to the 5.13 routes on the Frisky Cliff. They sit in a beautiful spot, high above the canyon floor with a great view of Castle Rock's south face. Enjoy the flowers & clean mountain air.
The first routes were established around 1990. They were minimally bolted without top anchors. Starting in 2005, numerous sport routes have been established & several older routes have been retrobolted. This a now a fun area with safe routes.
L->R these may be:
A. Coming Up Roses, 9, 1p, 70', bolts.
B. Mountain Rose, 10- R, 1p, 60', gear & gear.
C. Grizzly Rose, 10, 1p, 50', bolts.
D. Golden Rose, 12-, 1p, 60', bolts.
E. Unknown, 10, 1p, gear.
F. Yellow Tail, 11+, 1p, 50', bolts.
G. Steel Pulse, 11, 1p, 60', bolts.
H. Big Tuna, 11-, 1p, bolts.
I. Axed, 9+, 1p, 60', bolts.
J. Wyoming Prairie Dogs, 10-, 1p, 50', bolts.
K. The Ancient Of Days, 8- X (now 8-), 1p, gear or TR (now retrobolts).
L? Time Lords?, 7 R, 1p, gear.
M? Geezer Squeezer, 9 PG-13, 1p, 101', gear & bolts.
N. Hummingbird, 5, 1p, 140', gear.
O. War Drums, 9, 1p, 100', gear.
PO. Sick Puppy, 12, 1p, 50', bolts.
Q. Short Sport Route, 10+, 1p, 30', bolts.
R. Short But Sweet, 8, 1p, gear.
S Dirty Rose, 10, 1p, 60', bolts.
T. Heat Wave, 9+, 1p, 60', bolts.
U. Better You Than Me / Around the Corner, 8 X, 1p, 55', gear or TR (now retrobolts).
Classic Climbing Routes at Mountain Rose
Days w Precip