Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Mike Darrah & John Aughinbaugh in June 1990
Page Views: 604 total · 12/month
Shared By: Mark Rolofson on Apr 13, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / Update Details

Description

This is a difficult slab climb on perfect rock reminiscent of Vedauwoo with tiny edges & a few sloping knobs. Climb up to a small overlap to reach the 1st bolt on the slab above. A tricky move leads over the overlap. Then traverse right to the blunt arete & 2nd bolt. Tiny holds lead up to 3rd bolt. An very insecure step left gains a good stance on a large sloping knob. Crux moves lead up the left side of the blunt arete or rounded prow to a small quartz knob. Continue up the arete. As the angle lessens, the tiny holds disappear, & friction moves lead to the last bolt. Finish up the right side of the arete to gain a ledge & the anchor. If you love the adrenaline & insecure nature of desperate slab climbing, you'll love this route.

Location

This is right of War Drums. Leave the aqueduct trail, & walk uphill along a short wall through the trees for 50 feet to the base of the route.

Protection

5 bolts and 2 Fixe rings.

Photos

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Mark E Dixon
Sprezzatura, Someday
 
Mark E Dixon   Sprezzatura, Someday
 
I'm pretty sure there are only 4 bolts.

The move past the first overlap is entertaining, as are several others higher.

After clipping bolt 3, I found a sequence which also uses holds to the right of the arete. Not sure how Mark stays left.

Really a fun route, very clean, deserves more traffic. Try it sometime, when headed to or from Frisky. May 5, 2017
Jason Haas
G1 Climbing + Fitness
Jason Haas   G1 Climbing + Fitness
There's 5. One out left to start, then 4 along the arete Jul 1, 2018
Mark Rolofson
Boulder, CO
  5.12b
Mark Rolofson   Boulder, CO
  5.12b
Yes, there are 5 bolts like I originally posted. The editors of this website didn't trust me. There were originally 4 bolts & no anchor when this route was established in 1990. In 2010, I added a bolt in the runout to the last bolt. This very committing runout seemed dangerous with the potential of hitting the large black knob shelf below 3rd bolt. I also added the two bolt anchor & replaced the last bolt. The nut on the last bolt was barely on & couldn't be screwed on any further. If the nut loosened, it would surely fall off the bolt.

Past the 3rd bolt, I have climbed it straight up to the small crystal knob, or used holds on the right side of the arete, but my body is more on the left side. Jul 1, 2018