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Routes in Mountain Rose

Ancient of Days, The S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Axed S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Better You Than Me / Around the Corner S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Big Tuna S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Coming Up Roses S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Geezer Squeezer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Golden Rose S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Grizzly Rose S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Heat Wave S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hummingbird T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Mountain Rose T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Short But Sweet T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Short Sport Route S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sick Puppy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Steel Pulse S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
War Drums T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Wyoming Prairie Dogs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Yellow Tail S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Mike Darrah & John Aughinbaugh in June 1990
Page Views: 356 total, 11/month
Shared By: Mark Rolofson on Apr 13, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This is a difficult slab climb on perfect rock reminiscent of Vedauwoo with tiny edges & a few sloping knobs. Climb up to a small overlap to reach the 1st bolt on the slab above. A tricky move leads over the overlap. Then traverse right to the blunt arete & 2nd bolt. Tiny holds lead up to 3rd bolt. An very insecure step left gains a good stance on a large sloping knob. Crux moves lead up the left side of the blunt arete or rounded prow to a small quartz knob. Continue up the arete. As the angle lessens, the tiny holds disappear, & friction moves lead to the last bolt. Finish up the right side of the arete to gain a ledge & the anchor. If you love the adrenaline & insecure nature of desperate slab climbing, you'll love this route.

Location

This is right of War Drums. Leave the aqueduct trail, & walk uphill along a short wall through the trees for 50 feet to the base of the route.

Protection

5 (4?) bolts / 2 Fixe rings.

Photos

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Mark E Dixon
Sprezzatura, Someday
 
Mark E Dixon   Sprezzatura, Someday
 
I'm pretty sure there are only 4 bolts.

The move past the first overlap is entertaining, as are several others higher.

After clipping bolt 3, I found a sequence which also uses holds to the right of the arete. Not sure how Mark stays left.

Really a fun route, very clean, deserves more traffic. Try it sometime, when headed to or from Frisky. May 5, 2017