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Routes in Mountain Rose

Ancient of Days, The S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Axed S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Better You Than Me / Around the Corner S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Big Tuna S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Coming Up Roses S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Geezer Squeezer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Golden Rose S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Grizzly Rose S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Heat Wave S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hummingbird T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Mountain Rose T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Short But Sweet T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Short Sport Route S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sick Puppy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Steel Pulse S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
War Drums T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Wyoming Prairie Dogs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Yellow Tail S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 100 ft Fixed Hardware (1)
FA: Mike Darrah and Chuck McGrosky, 1989
Page Views: 247 total, 4/month
Shared By: Mark Roth on Jun 30, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This is a great climb. I hope this one doesn't get "modernized" as it wouldn't be as fun without the fear factor.

The mental crux is getting to the first bolt, and the thinnest climbing is the section around the first 2 bolts. There is basically no gear until the first bolt, but the climbing isn't hard and you can get a small cam right bellow the bolt. From here up, there is plenty of tiny gear if you look for it. Small Aliens, C3s, pink tri-cams in flared horizontal slots. The biggest thing you need is a 0.5 C4 (purple). It goes in the only gear placement you can see from the ground.... After the 2nd bolt, things ease up and at a tiny twig of a tree you have to make a decision. You can head up right, which looks really easy, or stay to the left and move up into a steep pegmatite section. Only then will you see the last bolt a 1/4 inch button head. Hopefully you have placed some gear in-between the bolts? The steep part is fun and easy, but you never know when one of those big crystals will just fall off and you probably don't want to test that bolt! Head up to the tree and wonder if it will support your weight....

This route has some of the best rock on this crag. I think it was spared from the dynamite? Steep slab moves and easy face climbing with a touch of excitement.

Location

This route is on the face just right of the big Hummingbird corner. Look for two bolts a ways up.

Protection

Small cams and 3 questionable bolts (1st 2 are 5/16" (this was an uneducated guess) with SMC hangers, the 3rd is a buttonhead). There are slings with links on a tree for an anchor. The tree is small and unhealthy looking.

Photos

Mark E Dixon
Sprezzatura, Someday
 
Mark E Dixon   Sprezzatura, Someday
 
Maybe the nicest route at the crag.

I used a #1 1/2 Friend and a #0.5 Camalot. You could place TCUs in various spots as well, if desired.

Going left at the tree/twig is really fun amongst the pegmatite, highly recommended, but beware of breakable crystals. Jul 15, 2016
I led this four or five years ago, finding only two bolts. Sounds like the third bolt wasn't worth finding. I did find lots of placements in horizontals, using C3s up through #1 Cam. So three new bolts is more than plenty. Aug 14, 2015
Greg Barnes
  5.9 PG13
Greg Barnes  
  5.9 PG13
All 3 bolts were replaced today 8/1/15, and we added a two bolt anchor to the left of the dying tree & removed all the tat off the tree (just a note - it's dying due to running out of dirt, it has nothing to do with climbers). The first two bolts were rusty 3/8" sleeve bolts (of the Lok-bolt design, e.g. powers.com/product_06160.php - a very weak bolt even when new), and the third was a 1/4" buttonhead.

Hardware for the bolt replacement was provided by the ASCA, please support bolt replacement and donate! safeclimbing.org Aug 1, 2015