Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: DL, BL, & TL
Page Views: 563 total · 3/month
Shared By: Dan Levison on Aug 2, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

25 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / Update Details


This route starts 30 feet right of the route entitled Mountain Rose, which is the first route on the Mountain Rose East Crag. Climb a steep face to a prominent bulge at 40 feet. Pull through the crux on small crimps, and deadpoint for a jug. Easier climbing leads to the anchors. It is a good warm-up for the routes on Frisky Cliff, which is west of the Mountain Rose crags.


7 bolts; 2 bolt anchor.


I don't feel like this is .12a. There is a good rest when you move left over the arete before the steep section. Due to this almost no hands rest, you can get everything back before the crux, which is quite short. This makes it closer to .11c/d. Still a fun route though. However, if you stayed to the right of the bolts the whole time and skipped the very obvious rest to the left, this climb would be .12a. Dec 9, 2011
Jack Sparrow
denver, co
Jack Sparrow   denver, co
Definitively 12a, no doubt about it, but every route in Boulder Canyon has to be downgraded by someone. Jul 14, 2012
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
Great route at kind of an obscure crag. Worth the effort though. Cool movements on pretty solid beautiful granite.... Aug 22, 2012
Eric Carlos
Eric Carlos   depends
Granite is not that solid. I broke holds on every route on this wall including this route on the bullet looking lower portion. Sep 19, 2012
Dwight Jugornot
Arvada, Co.
Dwight Jugornot   Arvada, Co.
Big Tuna and this one were bullet-hard granite. No choss, solid stuff. Golden Rose offered deep hard pull to a slopey clip hold then balancy lateral move with a toe hook. 5.fun! Jun 10, 2013

Fun, little route with good protection at the crux. Tricky the first time, substantially easier the second time. Jun 8, 2014
Mark Rolofson
Boulder, CO
Mark Rolofson   Boulder, CO
A fun route with great rock and nice goods. That said, it's not 5.12a but more like 5.11c/d. Compare it to any number of 12a climbs - The Good, The Bad & The Jacked, Free Fall, Boulder Quartz System, Empire Of The Fenceless, Mercy Drilling, and even Days Of Future Passed (which seems a little light for the grade) this route is not as hard. At the 5th bolt, it is possible to finish directly above the bolt (.11d) or move left then up, which is a bit more committing but easier. Nov 4, 2014