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Routes in Mountain Rose

Ancient of Days, The S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Axed S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Better You Than Me / Around the Corner S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Big Tuna S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Coming Up Roses S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Geezer Squeezer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Golden Rose S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Grizzly Rose S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Heat Wave S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hummingbird T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Mountain Rose T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Short But Sweet T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Short Sport Route S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sick Puppy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Steel Pulse S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
War Drums T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Wyoming Prairie Dogs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Yellow Tail S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 60 ft Fixed Hardware (1)
FA: John Aughinbaugh, Mike Darrah, 1990
Page Views: 431 total, 15/month
Shared By: Greg Barnes on Aug 1, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Mountain Rose is a varied crack/face route with good interesting climbing. It is a bit runout getting to the bolt (although it may well be possible to continue up the crack then traverse back to the bolt). There is a very slopey/balancy crux after the bolt. You can wander to the top past the anchors for Grizzly Rose, but it's doubtful many will do that. There may be a harder (contrived) crux up high if you stay left and don't go to (or past) the Grizzly Rose anchors.

Location

It is on the far left of the crag, it is the obvious crack line up below roofs, starting 15' left of Grizzly Rose.

Protection

Thin - 3" cams, stoppers are not so useful due to the roof placements (although you could place one at the lip of the second roof). It has 1 bolt, replaced 8/1/15. Currently there's also a fixed #0 TCU that doesn't look like it's going anywhere.

Photos

pfwein
Boulder, CO
5.9
pfwein   Boulder, CO
5.9
I'm reluctant to say a route is safe, but it seemed to me that gear is plentiful and solid. I would recommend nuts for anyone apprehensive, as they seemed extra bomber, and a bomber #3 C4 in the crack over the roof protects getting to the bolt.

TLDR: I'm not sure I see why this would be rated PG-13 or even PG really (unless the standard for G is a continuous bomber crack). Aug 27, 2017
T G
Colorado
  5.10a PG13
T G   Colorado
  5.10a PG13
Climbing the roof line and pulling the roof are worth doing. The climbing after the bolt becomes much less worthwhile, dirty, and quite slabby with minimal protection up high. There's no bolt anchor for this route, so either belay your follower off a tree at the top, or traverse right to the anchor at the top of the adjacent Grizzly Rose route. The descent gully to the left is loose and not that fun. Jul 9, 2017
Mark E Dixon
Sprezzatura, Someday
Mark E Dixon   Sprezzatura, Someday
Cleaner and more solid than it looks. Worth getting on if you have a small rack of cams along. Jul 26, 2016
Greg Barnes  
 
The bolt was a rusty 3/8" Lok-bolt design (e.g. powers.com/product_06160.php ) with the threads not quite fully engaged on the nut (perhaps someone had replaced the original thinner hanger with the Metolius hanger that was on it). It turned out the bolt was bent as well. Sketchy! This design of bolt is very weak in the 3/8" size even when new.

The bolt was provided by the ASCA, please donate and help replace old bolts! safeclimbing.org Aug 1, 2015