Type: Sport, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: Darrah, rope solo, 1989 (Rolofson, retrobolted in 2013)
Page Views: 1,153 total · 15/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jul 10, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / 2020 Update Details

Description

This is a line that is probably not worth the effort due to its rock quality. More traffic may not help. It may be somewhat better than Short But Sweet or unlikely even possibly a retrobolted version of the same.

Apparently, this route is Heat Wave, and M. Rolofson admits to retrobolting it, which led to the confusion in it not matching the route's original equipment.

Start left of a tree in the shade on crumbly rock. Clip 2 bolts (the 2nd has a red hanger), and move leftwards onto the crumbly slab below a tiny bulge. Hop aboard the hanging slab with slick rock between crumbly breaks in the patina. At the last bolt, there are at least 3 options, including traversing left to the arete, stemming to the arete, and climbing the slippery, crumbly, rounded edges to gain the 2 bolt anchor with chains.

Some will argue star vs. bomb rating, I'm nearly split.

I don't recommend climbing this when it is wet.

Location

This route ascends a right-facing, hanging slab.

Protection

7 Fixe bolts with a 2 bolt anchor with rings.

Photos