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Routes in Lower Mother's Buttress

Alex's Tower T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Another Unnamed Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cow-a-Bunga T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cymbeline T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fine Line, A T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Guide's Route T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Lord of Wisdom, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mint Jam T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No Name Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Slippery When Wet T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown Semi OW T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Welcoming Party T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Description

This excellent crag was the first to be developed in Unaweep and still holds the greatest concentration of established lines. There are 39 routes consisting of high quality crack and face climbing, this is definitely a traditional climbing venue with only one route being fully bolted. A good selection of gear and crack climbing savy are essential. Routes range from 5.7 to 5.12, one to six pitches. This crag is on private property which is owned by local climbers who currently allow access, please treat the area with respect. This is among the finest of grags in the canyon. Mother's Buttress consists of three different areas; Main, Middle, and Lower Buttresses, East to West or Left to Right when facing the crag from the road. Park and approach is the same for all sections of the crag.

Getting There

3.1 miles West of Divide Road on Hwy 141. Park at a pull-out on the side of the road near a fire burn area directly below the Lower Mother Buttress. Hike to the base of the Lower in 10 minutes, 15 to the Upper.

12 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lower Mother's Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 18
Alex's Tower
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 24
Cow-a-Bunga
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 32
Mint Jam
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 16
Fine Line, A
Trad
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 31
Guide's Route
Trad 6 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 33
No Name Route
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 8
The Lord of Wisdom
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Alex's Tower
 18
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad
Cow-a-Bunga
 24
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Mint Jam
 32
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Fine Line, A
 16
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Guide's Route
 31
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad 6 pitches
No Name Route
 33
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
The Lord of Wisdom
 8
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
More Classic Climbs in Lower Mother's Buttress »

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

I have discovered this piece of rock is for sale. 100k. 970-9352 weplayn@aol.com Apr 20, 2005
Latest story is here:

vaildaily.com/article/20080…

Anyone know what came of the meeting with the AF? Jan 16, 2008
Jesse Zacher
Grand Junction, Co
Jesse Zacher   Grand Junction, Co  
Someone is in negotiations with the AF and the land owners to buy it and then deed the land that has the climbing and the trail to have permanent access. So far, no new word. Except, donate to the AF. Jan 20, 2008
Help build a new trail!

The WCCC is going to be building a new trail to the Mother's area October 26th, 2008. Check out their website for details: westernslopeclimbers.blogsp…

The new trail will be on land that the WCCC will own soon and will get the trail off private property. Oct 11, 2008
You can find shade here in the later afternoon of summer. Great for a quick day of cragging. Plus the new parking lot should be in next week!! Aug 17, 2011
Hey, climber dudes and dudettes.
There will be a small, low-key dedication of a plaque for John Peterson on Lower Mother's Buttress on 8/5/2017, at 11am. Come if you like!

Otherwise, the next time you are there, please, notice the plaque, and tell a John-story.

Please share this notice with your climbing buddies in Colorado that knew John.
--Marti Peterson

Getting There
3.1 miles West of Divide Road on Hwy 141 near Whitewater, CO. Park at a pullout on the side of the road near a fire burn area directly below the Lower Mother Buttress. Hike to the base of the Lower in 10 minutes, 15 to the Upper.
___________________________________
Marti Peterson Aug 3, 2017

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