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Routes in Lower Mother's Buttress

Alex's Tower T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Another Unnamed Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cow-a-Bunga T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cymbeline T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fine Line, A T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Guide's Route T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Lord of Wisdom, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mint Jam T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No Name Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Slippery When Wet T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown Semi OW T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Welcoming Party T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad
FA: Tom Stubbs
Page Views: 2,386 total · 12/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Feb 17, 2002 with updates from Sarah Meiser
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is quality climbing on beautiful stone. This route is located (along with a good selection of other moderate single pitch crack climbs) on the East end of the Lower Mothers Buttress. The trail up from the road leads directly to the Mint Jam chimney, No Name starts just to the right of this obvious route. Climb good hands and fingers for 10 feet to an offwidth section, continue up a short distance to a ledge below a beautiful and slightly overhanging finger crack. Jam away with perfect protection up to another ledge (9+). Finish with an open book corner with wide hands to a large ledge (8). Either walk off to the East or if doing another of the several routes that end on the same ledge, leave an anchor and rap off.

Protection

Standard rack up to 3 inches.

Per -ropewad -: there is now a fixed anchor.

Per Sarah Meiser: there is now a 2 bolt anchor at the top of this climb.

Photos

Matt Chan
Denver
  5.9+
Matt Chan   Denver
  5.9+
This route actually has a couple anchor bolts so you can easily lower off w/ a 60m rope. Oct 4, 2004
The new trail comes in from the west - you can recognize the start of this / Welcoming Party / Mint Jam as the lowest point of the buttress.

The rating on this depends on hand size. For big hands, this is a solid 10. Apr 26, 2009
Short little cruxes with rests and bomber gear in between. Classic and safe. Aug 17, 2011
rob bauer
Golden, CO
  5.10a
rob bauer   Golden, CO
  5.10a
Great line, THIS climb needs a name! Oct 31, 2011
coop Best
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
coop Best   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Felt more like a 10, has bolted anchors, great climb. Mar 19, 2012
Crag Mag22
Denver, CO
Crag Mag22   Denver, CO
As you can see from the ground, the business of this line is not at all fingers, but the crack does narrow above the crux for about 3 feet. May 29, 2012
There is now a fixed anchor. I didn't install it, but there is one there. Feb 18, 2016

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