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Routes in Lower Mother's Buttress

Alex's Tower T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Another Unnamed Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cow-a-Bunga T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cymbeline T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fine Line, A T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Guide's Route T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Lord of Wisdom, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mint Jam T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No Name Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Slippery When Wet T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown Semi OW T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Welcoming Party T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Skyeler Congdon-Roped Solo
Page Views: 105 total · 1/month
Shared By: Skyeler Congdon on May 15, 2011
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is an independent start that links several of Cow-a-bunga's harder variations. It shares no climbing with any other established route, but the top third has been climbed before.

Cymbeline is a dramatic climb in five acts: Make bouldery moves off the ground up and right aiming for a small ledge (potentially PG-13). From the ledge, climb the right side splitter of a tornado-shaped feature, reaching another small stance. Step right and climb a clean, fingers-to-hands splitter. Move right and join Cow-a-bunga's 5.9 variation: double finger cracks. This ends at a pair of bolts- where a TR is possible with a 60m rope. I continued up from here, climbing the clean fist/OW corner to the top of the buttress.

Although ledgy and not sustained, the climbing on this route was fun and varied. This route is comparable to The Lord of Wisdom in difficulty, maybe a letter grade harder but less sustained.

FWIW, this route was done ground-up and solo using a Gri-gri.

Location

The new approach trail brings you directly to the start of this climb. It begins 10 feet left of the only tree at the base of the cliff, and 5 feet right of "Another Unnamed Route."

Protection

Singles from 00 TCU to a #3 Camalot. A #9 DMM offset protects the upper crux.

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