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Routes in Lower Mother's Buttress

Alex's Tower T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Another Unnamed Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cow-a-Bunga T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cymbeline T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fine Line, A T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Guide's Route T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Lord of Wisdom, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mint Jam T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No Name Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Slippery When Wet T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown Semi OW T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Welcoming Party T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad
FA: KC Baum
Page Views: 446 total · 2/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Feb 17, 2002 with updates from Edward Medina and 1 other
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is yet another quality route on the East end of Lower Mothers Buttress. Follow the trail up from the road to the Mint Jam chimney (see Mint Jam). This route shares the same start as No Name Route but cuts [right] into the offwidth where No Name tackles the finger crack. Start in a good hand crack just right of Mint Jam chimney, and climb up for 10 feet to a sloping ledge and head right into a super funky offwidth. The book suggests a sideways body stem to get through this section, I suggest bringing a healthy selection of cuss words and a big cam for the move, it would probably be called 5.10 in Boulder Canyon and have a few bolts on it :-) Finish straight up on wide hands passing a few chockstones, and belay on a large ledge at 90 feet.

Walk off to the east.

Protection

A standard rack with one offwidth piece (#4 Camalot).

Per Sarah Meiser: there is now a 2 bolt anchor at the top of this climb.

Photos

Definitely bring a 3.5 or a 4 not too bad otherwise. Jul 13, 2004
Cale Csizmadi
Colorado Springs
5.7+
Cale Csizmadi   Colorado Springs
5.7+
Great one pitch route with a little bit of everything and a great intro to Unaweep climbing. Stepping off the ground you have a great hand crack with some stemming to the 1st foot ledge. Then the rock gets slightly steeper with great jams to the next ledge below the offwidth (#1 BD protects). Tackling the offwidth I used a #3.5 BD at the begin climbed up left side in and protected the top moves with a #4 BD. Aug 9, 2004
Matt Chan
Denver
  5.8
Matt Chan   Denver
  5.8
I'd argue that the crux is 5.8, but I have no off width technique at all. Take the #4 camalot with for the crux and dig it in deep. 1.5 stars - not nearly as good as its neighbors. Jun 28, 2005
LIV Veraldi
  5.7+
LIV Veraldi  
  5.7+
Great one-pitch route - off width wasn't horrible, but probably more like an 8 in that section. May 23, 2011
Kris Hjelle
Grand Junction, CO
Kris Hjelle   Grand Junction, CO
Does not share the start with No Name Route, they are completely separate cracks although very close together. Jul 20, 2017

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