Type: Trad
FA: KC Baum
Page Views: 1,979 total · 7/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Feb 17, 2002 · Updates
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This is yet another quality route on the East end of Lower Mothers Buttress. Follow the trail up from the road to the Mint Jam chimney (see Mint Jam). This route shares the same start as No Name Route but cuts [right] into the offwidth where No Name tackles the finger crack. Start in a good hand crack just right of Mint Jam chimney, and climb up for 10 feet to a sloping ledge and head right into a super funky offwidth. The book suggests a sideways body stem to get through this section, I suggest bringing a healthy selection of cuss words and a big cam for the move, it would probably be called 5.10 in Boulder Canyon and have a few bolts on it :-) Finish straight up on wide hands passing a few chockstones, and belay on a large ledge at 90 feet.

Walk off to the east.

Protection Suggest change

A standard rack with one offwidth piece (#4 Camalot).

Per Sarah Meiser: there is now a 2 bolt anchor at the top of this climb.