Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Lower Mother's Buttress

Alex's Tower T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Another Unnamed Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cow-a-Bunga T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cymbeline T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fine Line, A T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Guide's Route T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Lord of Wisdom, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mint Jam T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No Name Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Slippery When Wet T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown Semi OW T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Welcoming Party T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: KC Baum and Don Anderson, 10/22/1987
Page Views: 1,218 total, 9/month
Shared By: Matthew Seymour on Apr 22, 2007
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


8 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Layback the start until you can stand and gain a nice hand/finger crack. Continue up with great jams and a few face holds to a small alcove with a nice rest just below a bulge. Pull the bulge with badly flared hand jams (crux) and gain the top ledge.

There are bolts on the top of the ledge not visible from below. Some sort of edge protection would be helpful for your anchor.

Location

This is located to the right of where the trail meets the wall. Head around the corner past a deep chimney to a crack with an offwidth crack just to its right.

Protection

Cams from small to hands, and nuts.

Photos

Makes me wonder why there are tons of climbers in Unaweep every weekend. This route has it all. Liebacking, fingers, a small roof, and hand jams! Aug 17, 2011
Dustin B
Steamboat
 
Dustin B   Steamboat
 
Nice and stout, a fine short climb. Sep 4, 2009
S. Stember
St. Paul, MN
  5.10+
S. Stember   St. Paul, MN
  5.10+
There are two starts to this route. The guidebook tells you to go up the offwidth on the right and traverse into the finger/handcrack. This move is weird and challenging. Oct 7, 2007